Jan 23, 2011

Rabbit Care

Ear cleaning
You should regularly check inside your rabbit ears to ensure that no accumulation of wax or other debris. If so, take your rabbit to the vet. Rabbits can get ear mites, which cause itching and a build up of nasty things. Never insert anything into the ears of your rabbit, as you can damage the inner ear.

Fuzzy wash your face
Do I have to wash my rabbit? NO! Never wash a rabbit unless it is very dirty or soiled himself. Rabbits can go into shock when immersed in water. Rabbits are a very good job of staying clean and just need help when they are very sick. If you must wash her pussy, fill a bath / tub with about an inch of water. Place a towel on the bottom of the bath so that the rabbit has some grip. Use a little mild shampoo or soap in the water. Try to keep the front half of rabbit out of the water. This may stop their struggle. Gently rub the hindpaw / tail area with your fingers and remove any poop. Council water and then replace it with clean water to rinse the rabbit. Use towels and paper towels to dry as best you can, then use a hair dryer to direct the hot air in the general area of the rabbit. Do not point the hairdryer in the rabbit, as it can burn the skin. In general, rabbits will try to lick it dry. Do not be surprised if your rabbit sulks for a while afterwards!

The scent glands cleaning
Rabbits have a scent gland on both sides of his anus. Scent gland cleaning needs such as the fragrance is a liquid that can clog the gland. It is a disgusting smelly work, but you have to do. To clean the scent glands out, get a cotton ball and soak it in warm water. You may have to get someone to help keep the rabbit upside down safely. Gently clean in the scent glands until the download is dropped. If you have trouble quitting, ask your vet to do it for you.

Nail / Claw trimming
clippers rabbits need their claws trimmed every 4-6 weeks. The claws are like nails, and never stop growing. Most domestic rabbits are not used his claws enough, so you will have to be cut. You can do it yourself with nail clippers, or you can take your rabbit to a vet. If you're doing to yourself, helps shine a light under the nail so you can ensure that you do not put the blood vessel (the pink bit).

Brushing
Rabbits moult several times a year and have central heating in the interior of the house must be confused. A soft brush can be used to brush your hair excessively. Rabbits are good at keeping your skin clean and tidy, which need not bother to brush every day.

Eyes
Sometimes the rabbits sleep in their eyes. Just wipe this away for them. If excess dirt or a lot of tears, the rabbit may have a problem. Take your rabbit to the vet. Useful information - Bunnies have a third eyelid, and is not necessary to open and close very often. That's how you can sleep with open eyes.

Fleas
If your rabbit is scratching himself a lot, most likely has fleas. Fleas are tiny flying insects are dark brown. They are not easy to find in all that rabbit skin, but can see little black specs of fleas that shit is behind us. Fleas need to be addressed as soon as possible to sit flea larvae in rabbits, rugs, carpet and hair anything like that. The best flea treatment for rabbits is Revolution. The dose should be prepared on the basis of body weight of rabbit, and then applied to the back of the neck of the rabbit. This is what it is not prepared or lick. Rabbits should be separated after treatment to ensure they do not lick the flea treatment each of the skin. Any carpet or material elements, for example. towels, which have been around the rabbit should be washed in hot water to kill larvae eggs. Treatment of revolution has a duration of one month, but rabbits may need additional treatment if there are more fleas have hatched from eggs.

General Horse Care

These general guidelines for horse owners are not meant to replace regular visits to a veterinarian. If you have any questions about the health of your pet, please consult your veterinarian.

Nutritional Needs
a horse's digestive system is made to process large quantities of grass, which is high in fiber and water. The basic diet for most horses should be quality and good grass hay, free of dust and mold. In most cases, plenty of fresh, clean water, not frozen, should be available at all times, even if the horse only drinks once or twice daily.

How much is enough? Most of the time, horses should be able to graze or eat hay when they want. An empty stomach is provided with an increased risk of ulcers, which are quite common in race horses and sports. How much to feed depends on various factors such as the condition and activity level, but most horses should eat between 2% and 4% of their body weight in pounds of hay or other feed. You have to see your horse and make sure that you maintain a healthy weight. Your veterinarian can help you decide how to feed horses hold their shape and healthy.

A word about grains
Most horses, even very active, do not need the extra calories found in grains, which are high in carbohydrates. Foals fed "high energy" diets can develop bone and joint problems. Some adult horses develop certain muscle disorders related to excess carbohydrates. It is also wrong to feed a horse extra grain in the winter to keep warm. There are, in fact, produce more heat when digested.

Any change in diet should be gradual to avoid colic (abdominal pain usually associated with intestinal disease) or laminitis (painful inflammation of the hoof associated with the separation of the leg bone of the hoof wall), either of which can be catastrophic. Late in horses or ponies in the barn or to be allowed to gorge on the green grass for the first time since the fall goes to the disaster. If you travel with your horse, bring your lunch along. For some horses, may also have to carry a supply of water that is used to.

Shots and worming
All horses need vaccinations and most need regular worming. The details should be discussed with an equine veterinarian. Each horse must be protected against tetanus. Other vaccines given routinely include eastern equine encephalitis and western equine influenza, rhinopneumonitis (equine herpesvirus), and rabies. Vaccines for West Nile virus are available. Consult your veterinarian if other vaccines are appropriate for your horse.

Worms can cause weight loss, poor coat, and colic, which can be fatal. It is better to have the vet test and deworm your horse, or advise you on what to wear and when. More important than the treatment of parasites is to minimize animal exposure to parasites. Proper management is not to put too many horses on too little land, rotating pastures if possible, and removing feces regularly.

Shelter, rest and exercise
Contrary to what you may have heard, straight stalls are not necessarily worse than box stalls if the horses are together, and spend most of their day outdoors. Isolated pit horses may develop behavioral problems of lack of companionship, exercise and mental stimulation. Whenever possible, horses should be outside with other horses every day.

Horses may enter into a light sleep with their legs "locked" so it takes very little effort to stand. In order to achieve deep (REM or dream) sleep, a horse to lie down. No one knows the number and frequency of a horse that has to do this, but take note of any changes in sleep patterns of your horse.

The horses are born to move. In nature you can walk many miles in a day, sometimes at a trot, a gallop, but unless you rarely have to. daily opportunity to exercise is a necessity, but if you are building the horse's strength and conditioning, follow a sensible plan, and little by little.

Extreme weather precautions
Unless you are very wet and windy, horses tolerate cold much better than the heat and humidity. If you can not sweat, you can not get rid of heat buildup in their bodies. If the sum of the temperature in degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity in percentage is over 130, you should be careful with the exercise of his horse. If it is over 150, you should probably rest in the shade, and if more than 180, most horses should not work at all.

Hoof Care
Hooves should be trimmed every six to eight weeks for horses whose feet do not get adequate natural wear. Despite tradition, most horses do not need shoes if the hooves are given the opportunity to strengthen naturally. In fact, some hoof problems are directly related to rackets. However, the changes should not be made suddenly or without expert guidance. Find a veterinarian or farrier willing to discuss all options can be difficult, but worthwhile. In any case, neglecting the feet can be disastrous for the horse.

Teeth
Horses' teeth grow continuously. Uneven wear can lead to points and edges that cause pain and difficulty chewing. A horse's teeth should be checked once or twice a year and "floated" (to make them smoother) by a veterinarian or equine dentist trained, as necessary. Dental problems, from painful points to rotting teeth, can cause difficulty chewing or quidding "which occurs when food falls from the mouth. Other signs of dental disease can include bad breath, undigested hay in the stools, or discomfort from the bit or noseband. Dental disease can lead to strangulation, cramps, and weight loss.

Equine Poisoning Prevention
Veterinarians at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center has compiled the following list of spring and summer dangers to horses:

* Wilted red maple leaves
* Black Walnut (eg shavings bedding)
* Oak (especially the new leaves of spring growth)
* Species of Taxus (yew, Japanese yew, American yew, English yew, western yew, oleander and laurel rose
* Rhododendrons and azaleas
* Serpentaria White sanicle richweed, white, jimmy weed, goldenrod without light, burrow weed
* Yellow Star Thistle, Thistle St Barnabas, Russian NAPWA
* Blister beetles, which sometimes can be found in alfalfa hay, especially in the Midwest and Southwest)

If you suspect your animal has ingested a poisonous substance, call your veterinarian or telephone 24 hours a day of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

Top 10 Nutritional Tips for Horses

Remember the old nursery rhyme that begins, "Hay is for horses"? As a result, it is good advice for feeding horses company, as these tips from our experts on the ASPCA Pet Nutrition and Science Advisory Service.

1. Base Your Horse’s Diet on Grass and Hay

The basal diet of grass horse hay and a horse's digestive system is made to process large quantities of grass, which is high in fiber and water. The basic diet for most horses should consist of grass hay and good quality that is free of dust and mold. As a general rule, horses company should be able to graze or eat hay when they want.

2. Feed several small meals a day
Because the stomach of horses have been developed for grazing, the horses run better with a meal plan based on "little and often. "ASPCA experts recommend that horses should eat several small meals at least two, preferably three or more, in the course of a day. When feeding hay, give half the allowance of hay at night, when the horses have more time to eat and digest.

3. No grain, No Gain
Most horses, even very active, do not need the extra calories found in grains. Too much grain can lead to muscles, bones and joints in young horses and adults. Unless otherwise stated by your veterinarian or other equine animals, it is best to feed the low energy diets high in grass and hay.

4. Be aware of individual needs
I think in terms of individuality of the horse, as a condition and activity level. Some horses have difficulty keeping on weight, and need more food per unit body weight. However, most horses should eat between 2 and 4 percent of their body weight per day in pounds of hay or other feed. Your veterinarian can help you decide how and what to feed your horse.

5. Water Works
Plenty of fresh, clean water, not frozen, should be available in most cases, although the only horse drinks once or twice daily. Contrary to instinct, horses that are hot from strenuous exercise should not have free access to water. Rather, it is necessary that only a few sips every three to five minutes until they are cool enough.

6. Provide additional salt block
Because most diets do not contain mineral levels high enough for optimal health and performance, horses should have free access to trace mineral blocks and salt. This will provide your horse with adequate levels of salt to stabilize the pH and electrolyte levels, and adequate levels of minerals. While plenty of fresh water available, no need to worry about excessive salt consumption.

7. Take it easy
Any change in diet should be gradual to avoid colic (abdominal pain usually associated with intestinal disease) and laminitis (painful inflammation of the hoof associated with the separation of the leg bone of the hoof wall), any which can be catastrophic. Horses are physically unable to vomit or belch. Overfeeding and rapid rates of consumption are potential problems. Consequently, a horse or pony to break into the barn, or if you get sick of green grass for the first time since the fall, may be headed for a health disaster.

8. Dental care and diet of your horse: Chew On This.
Horses need their teeth to grind grass and hay, so it is important to keep teeth healthy. At the age of five years, horses should begin annual dental examination by a veterinarian to see if their teeth need floating (filing). quality of teeth has to take into account when deciding whether or not to feed processed grains (grains that are no longer whole and cracked corn and oats). Horses with poor dental soundness, a particular problem in older horses, tend to benefit more from finished feeds that make young horses, who have mouths and teeth stronger.

9. Be careful
stabled horses need exercise. The horses eat better, digest food better and are less likely to colic if appropriate exercise. The horses must finish eating at least one hour before the hard work. Do not feed grain to horses tired or hot they cool and rested, preferably one or two hours after the activity. You can feed hay instead. To prevent hot horse cool too quickly, keep them out of projects or warm blankets.

10. Do not leave home without it
Since the sudden change in diet can have devastating results in the sensitive system of a horse, always put food on your horse with you when traveling. In addition, some horses refuse to drink water do not know, so you can bring along a supply of water to your horse regularly drinks.

Teaching Your Horse Not to Bite

In the horse world, there are different motivations to bite. tell aggressive bites another horse to back. These bites are always accompanied by aggressive signals as crestfallen, nostrils blew, attention is focused, and the neck stretched and head. Because horses usually show signs how are you prior to delivery of a bite, few horses actually get bitten by an attack. They read the language of a furious horse's body and away from the threat. The horses sometimes bite people too, and the accompanying body language to indicate whether a sting is really aggressive.

The horses bite each other to indicate that they like to play. Play bites are common among young horses, especially colts and geldings. The horses sometimes try to start the game with people by biting game. Young horses, when given a chance to leave after being arrested, often inclined to bite in his enthusiasm. Horses also prepares each other with their teeth. They gently nibble their herd mates, particularly the cross and neck, and sometimes direct the preparation behavior toward their human guardians.

Biting directed to humans is a dangerous behavior, regardless of motivation. The good news is that most bite problems can be solved through management and training.

Pinching and Trafficking
Horses explore their environment with their mouths. In particular, if bored, horses tend to mouth things and nuzzle at their disposal, including people. People sometimes inadvertently contribute to this problem. For example, if you often move your horse when given a nudge, but then was distracted while talking with a friend and not paying attention to his horse, she might get frustrated and try to pinch. Some horses will do the same thing when they want candy.

Pinching in these situations is not aggression, but it is a natural behavior that a horse can learn to use to her advantage. In fact, some managers will not allow stable students to give their horses because they think it is the horses from biting. There is some truth to this, some horses will receive fast if you give treats in your hand. But the problem is not trafficking. This is how the sweets are delivered and, more importantly, who is in control of their delivery. If the demands of your horse is patting or pinching and then forced him to his horse will nip it because that is what has been taught to do!

However, if you give your horse is when you pet or a snack, she will not bother pushing or pinching sweets. This lesson is particularly effective if they also teach that she can get is by performing a specific behavior such as nodding, kissing or touching the nose to a target. (Please see our article, How to teach horses to their destination, for detailed information about how to teach your horse this fun and useful skill.) When you ask your horse to perform the trick again that I taught, marks the moment when she correctly answered saying a word like "Yes!" or "Good!" Then your reward with a treat. With this technique, teach your horse that gives you the answers you ask, do not bite, "and you will win is pinched nip in the bud!

Nip Simple Rules for treatment-free

Do not give your horse when it touches you or your pockets.
Do not take it into his pockets and then let your horse try to recover them.
Do not give your horse the opportunity to nip at his hands while offering a treat. Whenever you give it, keep your palm flat and facing upward, fingers held together well and tipped slightly downward.
When you want to give your horse a treat, ask him to perform some simple behavior to win. The moment she does the behavior is marked with "Yes!" And then to get treatment.

How to teach the horse not to bite
If your horse has been bitten in the past, take time to assess the situation. When does the bite? What was happening around your horse? What had happened or was about to happen to her? Answering these questions can help determine when the horse is more likely to bite. Then you can make an effort to avoid these situations or change in some way to reduce the motivation for his horse to bite.

Protection Resources Some horses bite during meals. If your horse bites when you bring your food, teach her to lose the food that she thinks she is protecting scathing with their behavior:
At the moment his horse aggressive behavior directed towards you, simply walk away from the food and go.
When the horse stops behaving aggressively, they return with dinner. If she reacts aggressively again, simply turn on again. If you are consistent, your horse will stop being aggressive.
Does your horse bite when afraid? If so, its desensitized to things they fear. Please see our articles, horses that are afraid of noises, horses that are susceptible to manipulation and horses to be thrown head, for information on how to solve these problems related to fear. Pain is the horse bites because he is in pain? Carefully evaluate their physical and welding techniques. Does your chair form? If you girthing too fast or too well? Circle slowly and unhurriedly. Always be careful and gentle when tacking. High energy Does your horse bite of emotion, simply because it has too much energy to be contained? If you have a high horse power, channel and reduce the energy:

Take your horse out of its place and thrust under control for 10 minutes before bringing it back to their tactics.
If she does not lunge or rather, work on their leadership skills. main skills involve teaching your horse to give to pressure, to produce their hindquarters and a backup. These are all skills that will focus the attention of your horse and help work off their energy. Please see our article, How to teach horses to lead, to learn to teach these skills useful.

Dealing with Aggression

When the horse bites, the bite is aggressive? He covered his ears and mouth to push forward? Aggression should be dealt with through more than management training and simple, so you may need to seek help. It is better to work under the direction of a Certified Applied Animal behaviorist (or ACAAB CAAB), a veterinary behaviorist board certified (Dip ACVB) or an experienced coach with aggression in horses. Please see our article, Where to seek professional help to locate one of these qualified experts in behavior. If you decide to hire a coach because you can not find a behaviorist in your area, make sure the trainer you choose is trained to help. Find out if he or she has the education and experience in successfully treating the aggression horse.

Horse Care

Basic Information for the Serious Novice Horseperson

Because of their size and strength, horses are often misunderstood by people who don't know much about them. They often assume horses require little care - just stick them in a field and they'll be fine. They also tend to underestimate the safety aspects of being around horses - safety for both horse and human. Finally, many novice horse people, and even some experienced ones, don't understand horse behaviour and communication and so handle the horse inappropriately.

The information presented in the following fact sheets and articles is intended as an introduction to basic horse care. More detailed information is available in many excellent books and a growing number of web sites. Always remember that the primary source of health care advice for your horse should be your veterinarian who knows the specifics of your animal and your situation. If in doubt, ask your veterinarian.

Jan 15, 2011

Microchipping for Your Cat's Safety

Your pet escapes the yard and is found a few miles away by an animal control officer, who takes the pet back to the shelter and scans the pet in hopes of finding a microchip code. When a code is found and displayed on the scanner, the shelter employee is able to determine which database to contact for further information. Once the database is contacted, the microchip code is given.

At this point, there are two outcomes. If the owner did not register his name and telephone number with the database, the veterinary clinic that purchased the microchip is listed. Unfortunately, the pet must stay at the shelter until the veterinary clinic can be contacted, usually the next business day, in order to determine the name and telephone number of the owner.

The other potential outcome is based on owner's paying an additional fee and registering his name, address and telephone number, including alternates, with the database.
In this situation, the database is able to supply your telephone number to the shelter employee. The shelter can then contact you directly, resulting in reuniting you with your pet that night.

Recommendations

It is recommended that all pets are microchipped. Even those pets that do not venture outside may escape one day.

Register your pet!!! It is recommended that you pay the additional fee and have your name and telephone number listed with the microchip code.

It is recommended that you use an identifier on your pets collar indicating that he or she has a microchip and what kind.

An annual visit to the veterinarian specifically to test the microchip is recommended. Have your veterinarian scan your pet to determine if the chip is still transmitting data.

Annually confirm your pet's information with the microchip database and ensure that all contact information including your address, home and cell phone numbers, email address, and pager number, etc are all current. Ask your veterinarian or their staff where the chip is located in your pet. Most chips are injected over the back but they may migrate to the side.

Routinely feel the area in the location of the microchip for abnormalities. Report any masses or lumps to your vet immediately.

Microchips are fast becoming a popular method for permanent identification of pets. The chips are considered reliable and an effective way to identify lost pets. The chip is small, compact and easily inserted under the skin. But once inserted, there are two other equally important components of the microchip system that must be in place in order to properly identify and return lost pets to their owners; the microchip scanner and an accessible and accurate database. However, there is controversy regarding the chips and scanners.

The Controversy
AVID® and Home Again® microchips read on a frequency of 125 khz and have been commonly used in veterinary hospitals and shelters across the United States. Each company has universal scanners that can identify chips from each other as well as other microchip companies that create chips that are also 125 khz.
Controversy involving microchips exists because one company (Banfield®) introduced a chip that was 134.2 khz and incompatible with other readers. Therefore, pets chipped with Banfield® microchips could not be identified with the most common microchip scanners on the market in the U.S. Banfield has since stopped selling the undetectable microchips in their clinics. Recently, Home Again® announced a new scanner that will read all 125 kHZ microchips and detect 134 kHz chips.

The Microchip
The microchip is a tiny computer chip or transponder about the size of a grain of rice. It stores an identification number and transmits that information through radio waves to the appropriate scanner. Typically, the microchip number contains 10 characters, making available 275 billion separate codes. This makes it highly unlikely that the same identifying code will be used more than once. Rest assured that your pet will have a unique microchip code.

Microchips are composed of a silicon chip and tiny antenna encased in biocompatible glass. The microchips come pre-loaded in a syringe, and the needle is inserted just under the skin between the shoulder blades where the microchip is implanted. The entire procedure takes less than 10 seconds and is only as painful as a vaccination injection.
After injection, the tissue surrounding the microchip reacts to this new substance and forms a casing. This helps prevent migration of the microchip. Since the microchip is made of biocompatible material, rejection is uncommon and infection at the site is very rare.

The Microchip Scanner
The microchip scanner is used as a power source for the microchip and is used to receive the message encoded in the chip. The scanner uses electromagnetic energy to empower the chip to transmit its message through radio waves, which are normally at specific frequencies for each manufacturer of microchips. For this reason, in the past, not all scanners could read all brands of microchips.

In an effort to address this potential problem, in 1996, the International Standards Organization published that universal readers must be produced. Scanners are provided to animal control, humane shelters and other rescue organizations in an effort to ensure that every stray pet is scanned and those with chips are reunited with their owners. Veterinarians can also purchase scanners for use in their hospital.

Do Microchips Cause Cancer
There have been some reports of tumors caused by microchips in laboratory mice and rats. There is also a report of a dog that had a tumor removed that was next to the microchip however do definitive proof suggested it was from the microchip. The manufacturers of the microchips claim they are safe. For more discussion on this topic, go to Do Microchips Cause Cancer?

Should you microchip your pet? Absolutely Yes! Microchips are the best way of permanent identification of pets. The chips are considered reliable and an effective way to identify lost pets. At this point in time, we believe that they likelihood of a pet being lost and possibly euthanized because he cannot be identified is way higher than the chance of a tumor.

Microchip Database
Even if your pet has a microchip and is properly scanned, without an accessible database, this information will not return your pet to you. When contacted with the identification code of a missing pet, the database personnel can retrieve the pet's information. Each microchip that is sold is registered to the veterinary hospital or shelter that purchased it. It is the responsibility of the veterinary hospital to record your pet's unique microchip identification number in his record and notify the microchip database.

In addition, you can register your pet in your own name for faster notification when your lost pet has been found. There is a charge for this service. These microchip databases are usually available 24 hours a day and are even accessible via the Internet. But remember, the database, as with computers, is only as good as the data it contains. Annual confirmation of your pet's microchip information is strongly recommended.

Various Microchip Companies
In the United States, there are currently two active suppliers of microchips. American Veterinary Identification Devices (AVID®) and HomeAgain®. Each has unique codes and each support their own databases. Each is readily accessible.

AVID®
To date, AVID® has sold several million microchips. According to a spokesperson, a pet is reunited with his owner every 32 minutes. Currently, over 142, 000 lost pets have been returned home. For more information on AVID® microchips, visit them at www.avidid.com or call 1-800-336-AVID.

HomeAgain®
To date, HomeAgain® has sold over 500,000 microchips and over 34,000 pets have been reunited with their owners. For more information on HomeAgain® microchips, visit them at http://www.homeagainid.com/ or call the HomeAgain Pet Recovery Service at 1-866-PET-ID24 (1-866-738-4324).

How to Read Pet Food Labels

By learning how to read a label, you can learn a great deal of information about the food you are feeding your pets. You can even learn how to compare one food to another and choose the one best suited for your cat.

As with human food labels, pet food labels are strictly regulated by the federal government, the Food and Drug Administration and the Department of Agriculture, and must follow stringent guidelines. Pet food labels are typically divided into two separate sections: the principal product display and information about the food.

Principal Display – Product Name
This part of the pet food label contains the brand name of the food as well as the specific food or formula contained in the can. It lists which meat is primarily used in the food and may indicate for which age group the food is intended (growing, maintenance, adult). The product weight, in grams and ounces, is also included.
The principal display also includes the type of animal the food is meant for – dogs or cats.

How the product is listed on the label is also strictly regulated. In order to call something "Salmon Cat Food," at least 95 percent of the product must be the named meat, without counting the moisture content. If the moisture content is included, at least 70 percent of the product must be the meat listed. If the name has a combination of meats, such as "Chicken and Salmon," the two products together must be 95 percent of the product with the first ingredient listed more prevalent.

If the amount of the meat is over 25 percent but less than 95 percent, a qualifier must be added. The word dinner is a commonly added qualifier but platter, entrée, nuggets and formula are also common. Also, just because this product name says "chicken formula" doesn't mean beef or fish are not added. Check the ingredient list to find out which meats are also included.

Another rule regarding product name is the newly approved use of "with." In pet food such as "Cat Food with Chicken," since the word "chicken" follows "with," that food must have at least three percent of the food as chicken. This wording can fool some people. "Tuna Cat Food" is very different than "Cat Food with Tuna." The first has 95 percent tuna. The second only has three percent tuna.

Informational Section
In addition to displaying the product name, brand name, weight and intended species, the pet food label also includes a more complex section. The informational section contains a list of ingredients, the guaranteed analysis, feeding instructions and nutritional adequacy claim. This is the part of the label that is most important when comparing different foods and determining the nutrients in the product.

Ingredient List
The list of ingredients must be in descending order. This means that the most prevalent part of the diet is listed first and then following by each ingredient in order by weight. If your pet needs a diet low in protein, considered getting a food with several carbohydrates listed in the top five ingredients. If your pet needs high protein, get a food with the first two ingredients as meat products.

Guaranteed Analysis
This section of the pet food label lists the amounts of each ingredient contained in the food. Typically, the minimum amount of the ingredients is listed and not always the exact amount. When comparing one product to another, you must take moisture content into account. The ingredients should be compared on a dry matter basis. This means that if 82 percent moisture is present in the food, the remaining items comprise 18 percent of the diet. The minimum values listed for each ingredient (besides water) should be divided by 0.18 in order to get a dry matter amount. Now two products can be compared fairly. For information on minimum nutrient guidelines set forth by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), see Dietary Requirements in Cats.

Feeding Instructions
Each pet food lists how much of the food to feed per day. It is up to you to decide whether to feed as one meal or split into several throughout the day. The feeding instructions should be considered suggestions and not rules. A variety of factors will determine if your specific pet needs more or less of the food.

Nutritional Adequacy Claim
This section of the information area lists the life stage for which the food is made, such as "for maintenance," "for growth" or "for all life stages." If the pet food follows the guidelines set forth by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), the label will include a statement that says the food provides complete and balanced nutrition for a particular life stage. It will also list if the food is meant as a treat or a supplement and should be fed in combination with other foods.

Can Cats Get Heartworm Disease?

Mosquito season is almost here. Can your indoor cat – the one that never goes out – be at risk for heartworm disease? Heartworm disease is a parasitic disease that involves a long thin worm that lives in the blood vessels and heart of infected pets. It is transmitted by mosquitoes and can infect both dogs and cats.

Cats that are indoors may actually be at higher risk than cats that go out. In fact, up to 33 percent of reported cases are in cats who are described by their owners as "strictly indoors." Males are a bit more likely than females to be affected. Age is not a risk factor; cats of any age can be affected, with cats as young as 1 and as old as 17 having been diagnosed.

Heartworms are present (endemic) in most parts of the United States and in many parts of North America. Mosquitoes are the key – without them the disease cannot spread.The highest rate of infections is found in subtropical climates like those of the southeastern United States, the Gulf States, and Hawaii.

However, heartworms are also found throughout the central and eastern United States, particularly near oceans, lakes and rivers. When compared to dogs, cats are naturally resistant to heartworms (estimated at about one-fifth as likely to become seriously infected as dogs in the same region); however, heartworm disease in cats is often more severe than in dogs.

Prevention
Prevention of heartworm disease is simple. "Preventatives" kill microscopic larvae that are left behind by mosquitoes when they bite a cat. In most cases, a once-monthly pill (Interceptor® brand of milbemycin for cats or Heartgard® brand of ivermectin for cats) is effective in preventing heartworms from taking hold. A recently available preventative for heartworms, Revolution® brand of selamectin, is applied to the skin once monthly. Revolution can also control fleas. Both Heartgard® for cats and Revolution® also help to prevent intestinal parasites.

Recommendations
Owners of all cats living in areas endemic for heartworms should discuss the pros and cons of preventative care with their veterinarian. If dogs in the area receive heartworm prevention, it is likely that cats also may benefit from this protection. Interceptor® for cats, Heartgard® for cats and Revolution® for cats are safe and effective products. Do NOT use your canine heartworm medicine in your cat. The drug dosing is very different between species. Speak to your veterinarian about the need for preventative therapy, administration guidelines and when to start and stop prevention treatments.

Heartworm disease in cats can have a wide range of symptoms, with some cats being completely asymptomatic (no symptoms at all). Others may show vague, generalized clinical symptoms. A small percentage, however, may show severe life threatening symptoms.

Pros and Cons of Spaying and Neutering in Cats

It's time to start thinking about spaying or neutering your cat. But, you are not quite sure if it is the right thing to do. If you're wondering whether you should just leave your cat as nature intended, consider the positive and negative aspects of spaying and neutering before making your decision.

First, what does neutering mean? Neutering is a procedure used to "de-sex" an animal. This procedure has been used to control animal population growth, reduce unwanted sexual behavior in pets, and decrease or eliminate the possibility of certain disease conditions later in life, such as pyometra or infection in the uterus.

Castration is a term used to describe the removal of the gonads (testicles) in male animals. Spaying is a term used to describe the sterilization procedure of females. The procedure of spaying most often consists of removal of both the ovaries and uterus, which is called an ovariohysterectomy.
Both procedures are performed under general anesthesia and both involve a surgical incision.

Neutering is done most commonly at or around six months of age. However, many veterinarians perform this procedure earlier – as early as 8 to 10 weeks in some situations. Early neutering can be done safely and has a number of advantages, especially in cases of pet adoption.

Spaying – The Positive Side

Spaying removes the risk of pregnancy.
Pet overpopulation is a serious problem and by allowing your cat to have litters, you are adding to the problem. Finding homes for your new family additions is not as easy as you may think. Even if you choose to keep the kittens, you will have the additional cost of vaccines, parasite control, toys and food for several pets. In addition to costs, the health of the mother can be in jeopardy during delivery. Some new mothers can have serious complications delivering kittens and can even develop health problems during nursing. All these potential problems can be avoided by spaying your cat.

Spaying makes for a calmer cat.
Without the drive to mate, your cat may be quieter and won't be prone to cat calls and the incessant need to seek out a mate. The spayed pet no longer attracts males and their annoying advances and serenades. Spayed cats are also easier to get along with. They tend to be more gentle and affectionate.

Spaying keeps your cat healthier.
A final positive aspect of spaying your cat is that spayed cats tend to have fewer health problems. Spaying is the removal of the ovaries and uterus. Without these organs, ovarian cysts, uterine infections and cancer of the reproductive tract are no longer a concern.

Spaying – The Negative Side

Spaying means sterilization.
Spaying will result in the sterilization of your cat, and she will no longer have the ability to become pregnant. In the era of pet overpopulation and the fact that thousands of unwanted pets are euthanized each year, this is really not so bad.

Spaying may cause weight gain.
Some cats may gain weight after spaying and as they get older. Unspayed animals typically have a strong mating desire and can expend a lot of energy seeking a mate and reproducing. Without this energy burden, your cat may eat the same amount but not burn off as many calories. Cutting back on food intake or increasing your pets activity will help reduce weight gain.

Neutering – The Positive Side

Neutering removes the risk of pregnancy.
Pet overpopulation is a serious issue and by allowing your cat to breed, you are adding to the problem. Although you may not own the female cat, and you are not burdened with finding homes for those new kittens, someone else is. Even if you accept your responsibility and choose to keep the kittens, you will have the additional cost of vaccines, parasite control, toys and food for several pets.

Neutering makes for a cleaner, calmer pet.
Another positive aspect of neutering your cat is that neutering can result in a calmer, and sometimes cleaner, home. Without the drive to mate, your cat may be quieter and not prone to cat calls and an incessant need to seek out a mate. The neutered cat no longer feels the need to seek out and serenade females. He no longer has the stress of needing to mark his territory and urinate throughout the house and yard. Neutered cats are also easier to get along with. They tend to more gentle and affectionate. Neutered males tend to roam less and typically are not involved in as many fights with other animals.

Neutering keeps your pet healthier.
A final positive aspect of neutering your cat is that neutered cats tend to have fewer health problems. Neutering is the removal of the testicles. Without these organs, testicular cancer is no longer a concern and the risk of prostate problems is reduced. For those people who would like to sterilize their cat but do not wish to alter his appearance, testicular implants are available.

Neutering – The Negative Side

Neutering is sterilization.
Neutering will result in the sterilization of your cat.

Neutering may cause weight gain.
Some cats gain weight after neutering. Intact animals typically have a strong mating desire and can expend a lot of energy seeking a mate and reproducing. Without this energy burden, your cat may eat the same amount but not burn off as many calories. Cutting back on his food or increasing his activity can help reduce the weight gain.

Last year about 17 million dogs and cats were turned over to animal shelters. Only one out of every 10 taken in to the shelters found a home. This means that over 13.5 million had to be destroyed. The tragedy is that this is unnecessary. Much of the problem could be eliminated by simple surgery: Spaying and neutering operations are performed under general anesthesia and are quite painless. By neutering pets, owners can help lower the numbers of unwanted and homeless creatures.

Grooming Your Cat

Believe it or not, most cats need a little help with their grooming – and owners should pay attention to their cats' eyes, ears and coat.

Whether purebred or mixed breed, a key to good grooming lies in the length of a cat's coat. A cat with a very short, single coat similar to the Siamese, Burmese and Cornish rex needs very little grooming. The dense-coated shorthaired cats like American shorthairs, British shorthairs and Scottish folds require a monthly grooming session. Semi-longhaired cats resembling Maine coons should be combed and bathed even more regularly. Cats with long, flowing coats resembling the Persian should be combed and have their faces cleaned at least every other day, and they should be bathed weekly or bi-weekly. Their ears should also be cleaned.

Combing and Brushing Your Cat

The coat is the biggest grooming hurdle and can fall prey to shedding, a greasy consistency and mats (clumps of matted hair that are anchored to your cat's coat). Remember to comb gently from front-to-back and reassure your cat with a soothing voice. Do this as much as needed to keep shedding and knots to a minimum. The proper combs and brushes can help.

Belgian greyhound combs or just "greyhound combs" are the best to use with longhaired cats. Many of these combs have a coloured anti-static coating and goes through matts very easily. www.greyhoundcomb.com. Sometimes vendors at cat shows carry them. Peak Pro Tech combs can be ordered from veterinary catalogs and are comparable to the greyhound comb. The best size to use with longhaired cats and cats with dense coats is a 7.5-inch-by-one-inch comb that has both coarse and fine teeth. Combs that are 4.5 inches by one inch are good for all breeds. Those come in "fine/fine," "coarse/coarse" and "coarse/fine" teeth.

Pin brushes are good for longhaired coats, as are boar's hair bristle brushes. Boar's hair bristle brushes work well with dense-coated shorthaired cats also. The type of brush used depends on how well it does with the individual coat. A rubber curry brush is best for single, close-coated cats.

Taking Care of Mats

The dreaded mat can form on even the most well-groomed cats, especially during seasonal shedding. If you find these clumps of dried, tangled hair in your cat's fur, never try to cut them out because you could slip and cut your cat's skin. It is better to work out a mat with a grooming comb.

With one hand, try to hold the hair as close to its base as possible without pulling directly on the cat's skin. Hold the grooming comb in your other hand and use the tip to pick at the mat gently until it begins to loosen up. As it starts to break apart from the coat, it can easily be combed out. Repeat as necessary.

Cleaning Your Cats Eyes

Eye matter can be a problem in big-eyed, short-nosed cats – breeds like the Persian that have that "mushed-in" look to their faces. The large eye openings and the small distance from the tear ducts to the nose in these cats create an area for more tearing to occur than usual. Rather than pooling into tear ducts, the tears spill over the lower eyelids. Once the tears come in contact with air, they are "oxidized" and turn brown, staining the area below the eyes and creating a glue-like substance that needs to be cleaned out to keep the area healthy and the cat comfortable.

To clean the eyes use a soft washcloth or a cotton square dipped in tepid water. Hold your cat's head and wipe the damp cloth gently across her lower eyelid. Be careful not to rub the eyeball directly. Let the moisture soften the eye matter and then go back and wipe again. Make sure you use a fresh section of the cloth each time.

Bathing Your Cat

Sometimes greasy coats, allergies and plain old dirt require a cat to have a good bath. This can be tricky because cats usually don't like water. It is best to introduce a cat to bathing as a kitten so that baths become less stressful with time.

The process requires a medicated baby shampoo and a good animal shampoo manufactured by a company such as Lambert-Kay, Ring 5, Tomlyn or Vita-coat. Experiment with various brands to see what works best for your kitty. It is also a good idea to buy mild eye drops or ointments from your veterinarian to guard against soap getting into your cat's eyes. You may also need a wetting agent, a de-greaser and a conditioner to release the tangles in your cat's coat. Use a sprayer attachment for rinsing and keep towels nearby. To bathe and dry your cat, follow these steps:

Apply mild eye drops or ointment to the eyes to protect them from soap.

Fill the sink with tepid water and, if possible, add around three capfuls of a wetting agent like Shaklee's Basic H (which is non-toxic). Place your cat in the water. Using a plastic cup, pour this water mixture over the cat's body until the hair starts to part and the hair shaft becomes wet all the way to the skin. Do not get water in your cat's ears and never pour water over the head

Drain the water from the sink. To cleanse kitty's head, use a mild tearless baby shampoo only. Put a small amount on a wet washcloth and gently wash around the eyes, mouth, cheeks and forehead. Then rinse the cloth and go over the face to remove the soap.

If your cat has an extremely greasy coat, this is the time to apply a de-greaser. Fast Orange is a non-toxic de-greaser that can be found in supermarkets. Spread it liberally throughout the coat and then rinse it out.

Choose the shampoo that works the best for your cat's coat and apply and rinse off at least two or three times.

Rinsing is extremely important. Fill the wash basin with two or three inches of water until the bottom part of the cat's fur starts to float in the water. Keep rinsing until there is no residue. Use a cup to scoop the basin water over the cat's body and keep doing it until the coat is free of shampoo. Empty the soapy water from the sink and refill with clear water as needed.

If the cat's coat needs a conditioner, this is the time to apply it. Then rinse with water again.

A final rinse of a half cup vinegar to two quarts water will remove any traces of soap residue.

Rinse with tepid water a final time.

Clean the ears with a soft Q-tip dipped in otic solution, which you can purchase from vet catalogs.

Blot the fur with a dry towel. A single-coated or dense shorthaired cat can be towel dried and placed in a warm bathroom until he is completely dried.

The longer the coat, the more important it is to use combs and brushes at this point.

Dryers are a matter of preference, but it is nice to have one for a longhaired cat. Oster makes a table dryer that many breeders use. A Superduck Dryer is a little less costly and works well.

Dry the upper body by blow-drying backward against the lay of the hair. Work along the sides, forward to the front legs and up the neck. Each section should be totally dry before moving on or the hair will curl. The tail, belly and back legs should be done last because cats tend to have a lower tolerance in these areas. This way, if there is going to be a disagreement, it will come at the end of the grooming session.

How to Brush Your Cat's Teeth

Dental disease (especially periodontal disease) is the most common disease in our feline companions. It is also one of the most preventable and treatable disease. We can reduce or even prevent dental disease by feeding a crunchy diet and daily tooth brushing. The following are steps to guide you on how to brush your cat's teeth:

The first step is to start with a clean, healthy mouth, such as with a young pet with healthy new teeth and gums or after your cat has had a professional dental cleaning.

You will need a soft-bristled tooth brush and veterinary toothpaste. Human toothpastes and baking soda may cause problems. Veterinary toothpastes have flavors that are appealing to cats. Anything other than a bristled tooth brush will not get below the gum line (the most important area to brush).

There are several important facts about our pets' mouths that tell us when, where, and how to brush.

Periodontal disease usually affects the upper, back teeth first and worst. Plaque builds up on the tooth surface daily, especially just under the gum line. It takes less than 36 hours for this plaque to become mineralized and harden into "tartar" (calculus) that cannot be removed with a brush. Because of this progression, brushing should be done daily, with a brush to remove the plaque from under the gum line.

Pick a time of day that will become a convenient part of your pet's and your daily routine. Brushing before a daily treat can help your pet actually look forward to brushing time. Take a few days to let both of you get use to the process. Follow with praise and a treat each time.

Start by offering her a taste of the veterinary toothpaste. The next time, let her taste the toothpaste, then run your finger along the gums of the upper teeth. Repeat the process with the tooth brush. Get the bristles of the brush along the gum line of the upper back teeth and angle slightly up, so the bristles get under the gum line. Work from back to front, making small circles along the gum lines. It should take you less than 30 seconds to brush your pet's teeth. Do not try to brush the entire mouth at first. If all that your pet lets you brush is the outside of the upper teeth, you are still addressing the most important area of periodontal disease - prevention. If your pet eventually allows you to brush most of her teeth, so much the better.

Even with the best tooth brushing, some cats may still need an occasional professional cleaning, just like humans. By brushing your pet's teeth daily and curtailing the amount of periodontal disease, you may reduce the frequency and involvement of dental cleanings and provide your pet with a healthier, sweeter smile.

Vaccination

Feline Vaccine Recommendations

Vaccinations have saved the lives of millions of cats. Before the days of effective vaccines, cats routinely died from panleukopenia ("feline distemper") and complications of upper respiratory (herpesvirus, calicivirus) infections. Newer vaccines are available to protect against feline leukemia virus infection, feline infectious peritonitis virus and other infections (chlamydia, feline bordetella, ringworm). Current vaccination programs also protect our cats (and us) from the threat of rabies.

Traditional vaccines are administered by injection (shots), but newer vaccines can be administered through the nostrils and have been developed to protect against a variety of infections. Despite the well-known benefits of vaccination, the practice of annual vaccination of mature cats is controversial. Some veterinarians believe that annual revaccination is an important and critical part of preventative health care.

Others suggest that there is little scientific information to suggest that annual revaccination of older cats is necessary for some diseases because immunity to many viruses probably persists for the life of the animal.

The major concern about repeated vaccinations in cats is the issue of feline vaccine-associated sarcoma, a cancer that develops in approximately 1 of every 1,000 cats to as few as 1 in every 10,000 cats near the site of vaccination. Certainly routine vaccinations are essential for prevention of infectious diseases in kittens. Of course, some vaccines(rabies) are required by law and must be administered on a regular basis. Kittens receive immunity against infectious disease in the mother's milk; however, this protection begins to disappear in the first few months of life.

To protect kittens during this critical time, a well-researched approach is taken: A series of vaccines is given every 3 to 4 weeks until the chance of contracting an infectious disease is very low. The typical vaccine is a "combination" that protects against feline distemper virus, feline calicivirus, and feline herpesvirus. Rabies vaccines are given between 16 and 26 weeks of age in most states (governed by law). Some cats are also immunized against feline leukemia virus. The usual approach is to test the kitten for feline leukemia at the time of initial vaccination to ensure the cat is not harboring the virus. The use of other vaccinations is on a case-by-case basis. Booster immunizations are given during the first one or two years of "adult" life. Thereafter, the issue becomes cloudier. Don't be surprised if you encounter different views about booster immunizations. There has been insufficient research conducted in this area of long-term protection vs. risk of vaccine-associated sarcoma (tumors).

Recommendations

You should discuss all vaccination programs with your veterinarian.

Kittens between 4 and 20 weeks of age: A series of vaccines is recommended. These should begin between 6 and 8 weeks of age and continue every 3 to 4 weeks until the chance of contracting an infectious disease is very low (typically the last "shot" is given between 14 and 16 weeks of age). The vaccines should protect against feline panleukopenia ("distemper") and the upper respiratory viruses (herpesvirus, calicivirus).

If the risk of feline leukemia virus exposure is significant (out-of-doors cats), the leukemia virus vaccine sequence should be administered. Other vaccines are given on a case-by-case basis. Some veterinarians use traditional "shots" for vaccination while others use a combination of injections and intra-nasal vaccines. The rabies vaccines should be given as required by local laws.

Cats between 20 weeks and 2 years of age: It is typical to booster the kitten shots in young adult cats to insure adequate lifelong immunity against deadly viral diseases. Your veterinarian will likely "booster" your cat to protect against feline panleukopenia ("distemper"), the upper respiratory viruses (herpesvirus, calicivirus), rabies, and possibly the leukemia virus.

Cats older than 2 years of age: Annual revaccination (booster shots) is recommended the first year after the "kitten shots"; thereafter, you should discuss the benefits and risks of annual vaccination with your veterinarian. There is no national accepted standard at this time. Many veterinarians stagger booster immunizations over a number of years. The rabies vaccines should be given as recommended by local law.

Flea Control

Flea Control and Prevention in Cats

For millions of pets and people, the tiny flea is a remorseless enemy. The flea is a small, brown, wingless insect that uses specialized mouth parts to pierce the skin and siphon blood.

When a flea bites your cat, it injects a small amount of saliva into the skin to prevent blood coagulation. Some animals may have fleas without showing discomfort, but an unfortunate number of cats become sensitized to this saliva. In highly allergic animals, the bite of a single flea can cause severe itching and scratching. Fleas cause the most common skin disease of cats – flea allergy dermatitis.

If your pet develops hypersensitivity to flea saliva, several changes may result:

A small hive may develop at the site of the fleabite, which either heals or develops into a tiny red bump that eventually crusts over.

The cat may scratch and chew at herself until the area is hairless, raw and weeping serum ("hot spots").

This can cause hair loss, redness, scaling, bacterial infection and increased pigmentation of the skin.
The distribution often involves the lower back, base of the tail, toward the back, the abdomen, flanks and neck. It may become quite generalized in the severe case, leading to total body involvement.

Remember that the flea spends the majority of its life in the environment, not on your pet, so it may be difficult to find. In fact, your cat may continue to scratch without you ever seeing a flea on her. Check your cat carefully for fleas or for signs of flea excrement (also called flea dirt), which looks like coarsely ground pepper. When moistened, flea dirt turns a reddish brown because it contains blood. If one cat in the household has fleas, assume that all pets in the household have fleas. A single flea found on your pet means that there are probably hundreds of fleas, larva, pupa and eggs in your house.

If you see tapeworm segments in your cat's stool, he may have had fleas at one time or may still have them. The flea can act as an intermediate host of the tapeworm, Dipylidium caninum. Through grooming or biting, the animal ingests an adult flea containing tapeworm eggs. Once released, the tapeworm grows to maturity in the small intestine. The cycle can take less than a month, so a key to tapeworm prevention is flea control.

The Life Cycle of the Flea
The flea's life cycle has four stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The adult flea uses your cat as a place to take its blood meals and breed. Fleas either lay eggs directly on the cat where they may drop off, or deposit eggs into the immediate surroundings (your home or backyard). Because the female may lay several hundred eggs during the course of its life, the number of fleas present intensifies the problem. The eggs hatch into larvae that live in carpeting, cracks or corners of the cat's living area. The larvae survive by ingesting dried blood, animal dander and other organic matter. To complete the life cycle, larvae develop into pupae that hatch into adults. The immediate source of adult fleas within the house is the pupa, not the cat. The adult flea emerges from the pupa and then hops onto the host.

This development occurs more quickly in a warm, humid environment. Pupae can lie dormant for months, but under temperate conditions fleas complete their life cycle in about three weeks. The inside of your home may provide a warm environment to allow fleas to thrive year round.

Fighting the Flea
Types of commercial products available for flea control include flea collars, shampoos, sprays, powders and dips. Other, newer, products include oral and systemic spot-on insecticides.

In the past, topical insecticide sprays, powders and dips were the most popular. However, the effect was often temporary. Battling infestations requires attacking areas where the eggs, larvae, pupae and adults all congregate. Because some stages of a flea's life can persist for months, chemicals with residual action are needed and should be repeated periodically. Sprays or foggers, which require leaving the house for several hours, should be used twice in 2-week intervals and then every two months during the flea season.

Treating animals and their living areas thoroughly and at the same time is vital; otherwise some fleas will survive and re-infest your pet. You may even need to treat your yard or kennel with an insecticide, if the infestation is severe enough.

The vacuum cleaner can be a real aid in removing flea eggs and immature forms. Give special attention to cracks and corners. At the end of vacuuming, either vacuum up some flea powder into your vacuum bag, or throw the bag out. Otherwise, the cleaner will only serve as an incubator, releasing more fleas into the environment as they hatch. In some cases, you may want to obtain the services of a licensed pest control company. These professionals have access to a variety of insecticides and they know what combinations work best in your area.

Treatment & Prevention

As one might expect, flea control through these methods is very time consuming, expensive and difficult. The good news is that currently, with the newer flea products on the market, flea control is much safer, more effective and environmentally friendly. Current flea control efforts center on oral and topical systemic treatments. These products not only treat existing flea problems, they also are very useful for prevention. In fact, prevention is the most effective and easiest method of flea control.

One group of products works to control fleas by interrupting their development by killing flea larva and eggs. These drugs are called insect growth regulators (IGRs). These products do not kill adult fleas, but they dramatically decrease the flea population by arresting their development. One common oral product used is lufenuron (Program®). Lufenuron is also available as an injection that lasts 6 months. Methoprene and pyriproxifen (Nylar®) are also very effective IGRs that are available as sprays or collars.

Other products kill the actual flea (adulticides) and work quite rapidly. These include both spot-on and oral products. Spot-on products are usually applied on your pet's skin between the shoulders. The medication is absorbed into your pet's skin and distributed throughout the body. Fleas are killed rapidly on contact with the skin. Spot-on products include fipronil (Frontline®), Metaflumizone (ProMeris®), imidacloprid (Advantage®) and selamectin (Revolution®).

A recently developed oral adulticide is nitenpyram (Capstar®), that when given begins to kill fleas in 30 minutes.

All these products are safer, easier to use and, if used correctly, the most effective method of flea control. Additionally, some have the added benefit of efficacy against other parasites. Some veterinarians are even recommending a combination of an adulticide and insect growth regulator (Frontline Plus®) as a more complete method of flea control.

With all these choices it is best to consult your veterinarian as to the best flea control and prevention for your pet. The choice of flea control should depend on your pet's life-style and potential for exposure. Through faithful use of these systemic monthly flea products, the total flea burden on your pet and in the immediate environment can be dramatically reduced. Keeping your pet on monthly flea treatments, especially in areas of high flea risk, is an excellent preventive method of flea control. These products often eliminate the need for routine home insecticidal use, especially in the long run. Although it may still be prudent in heavy flea environments to treat the premises initially, the advent of these newer systemic flea products has dramatically simplified flea control.

Feeding Your Cat

Good nutrition and a balanced diet are essential elements for good health. The ideal diet for your cat includes a good quality food and plenty of fresh water. Your cat should be fed amounts sufficient to meet energy and caloric requirements. Inadequate or excess intake of nutrients can be equally harmful.

Dry cat foods have greater caloric density which means simply, there is less water in a 1/2 cup of dry food as compared to a canned food diet. Overall, the choice of "dry" vs. "canned" vs. "semi-moist" is an individual one, but most cats enjoy eating a combination of a dry food along with supplemental canned food.

Cats in the various life stages, including kitten ("growth"), adult and senior ("geriatric"), require different amounts of nutrients. Special situations such as pregnancy and nursing kittens can dramatically affect nutritional needs. Working cats need more calories, while the "couch potato" needs less (just like us).

Cats have particularly unusual nutrient needs. These include:
Vitamin A
Your cat doesn't have the ability to convert the carotene found in plants to vitamin A. His source of vitamin A must come from liver, kidney and other organ meats. If a cat lacks vitamin A in his diet, poor growth, weight loss, damage to cell membranes and decreased resistance to disease are among the possible consequences. More importantly, female cats may fail to cycle, the embryo may fail to implant or the pregnant cat may abort or produce kittens with abnormalities, such as a cleft palate.

Niacin

Your cat is unable to synthesize niacin from the amino acid tryptophan, due to an excess of a certain enzyme. Therefore, unlike other animals, his requirement for niacin must be met entirely from niacin present in animal tissues (plants are low in niacin). Deficiencies include weight loss, loss of appetite, unkempt fur and wounds around the mouth.

Essential Fatty Acids
Your cat requires sufficient arachidonic acid, a fatty acid found only in animal tissue. Therefore, he requires some animal fat in his diet. Dermatitis and poor reproductive performance are among the deficiency symptoms.

Taurine
Your cat's taurine requirement is quite high. Naturally he'd obtain taurine, an amino acid, from muscle meats. Fish and shellfish are also exceptionally good sources. Taurine deficiency can produce central retinal degeneration (CRD), a form of blindness. Besides CRD, deficiency symptoms of taurine include poor reproduction and dilated cardiomyopathy (heart muscle disease).

In addition to these dietary peculiarities, your cat requires a high amount of protein in his diet, about 12 percent in comparison to 4 percent for adult dogs. Unlike you, your cat does very well on a high-fat diet. Fat gives him needed energy, assists the absorption of fat-soluble vitamins, such A and E, and adds taste. Fat also adds to his needed calories, a daily requirement of about 35 kilocalories per pound of body weight.

Feeding
You can either feed him at least two meals a day or leave food out for snacking. In order to fulfill his needs, feed him one ounce of canned food daily, or 1/3 ounce of dry food, per pound of body weight. Most young cats (one to four years of age) are very active and self-regulate their food intake, thereby maintaining a healthy body weight.

As your cat ages, he may slow down and begin putting on extra weight. Monitor his weight - if he's becoming too fat, consult your veterinarian.

Remember, water is also an important nutrient. He needs fresh clean water daily. Your cat drinks about twice the amount of water as he consumes in dry food, though since canned cat food in greater than 75 percent water, he barely drinks when his diet consists of canned cat food only.

Recommendations
The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is an organization that publishes regulations for nutritional adequacy of "complete and balanced" cat foods. Diets that fulfill the AAFCO regulations follow the national consensus recommendations for feline foods and will state on the label: "formulated to meet the AAFCO Cat Food Nutrient Profile for...(a given life stage).

Consider Your Cat's Age

For kittens (up to 8-9 months of age): Feed your kitten a consistent canned, semi-moist, or dry cat food designed for kittens.

For adult cats (1-9 years): Feed your cat a consistent canned, semi-moist, or dry cat food designed for an "adult" cat.

For senior cats (8-9+ years): Feed your cat a consistent canned, semi-moist, or dry cat food designed for a "senior" cat.

Consider Your Cat's Body Condition

Underweight cats: Feed your cat 1-1/2 times the "usual" amount of food and make an appointment to see your veterinarian about your cat's body condition. Consider switching to a food with higher protein and fat content.

Lean cats: Many healthy cats are a bit thin, especially active young male cats. Consider increasing total daily food or caloric intake by 25 percent. Weigh your cat every week, if possible, to chart progress.

Chubby cats: If your cat is a bit overweight, try increasing the daily exercise routine. Gradually increase exercise over two weeks unless limited by a medical condition. Many cats like to play. If these measures fail, cut out all treats and reduce daily intake of food by up to 25 percent.

Fat or obese cats: Stop all treats except hairball medicines if needed. Increase exercise gradually over 2-3 weeks if not limited by a medical condition. If these measures fail, reduce the total daily food amount by 25 percent to 40 percent, switch to a low fat/high fiber diet, and call your veterinarian to discuss plans. Inquire about prescription-type reduction diets that can really be effective while providing balanced nutrition.

Preferred Food
There are a number of prominent manufacturers of high quality cat foods, including Iams (Eukanuba), Hill's (Science Diet), Nature's Recipe products, Nutra Max, Pedigree, Purina and Waltham, among others. Follow the label recommendations, but use your own judgment in determining how much to feed. Always provide your pet with fresh water.

Cat Care

Our veterinarians and behaviorists offer you a library of solutions to improve the health and lifestyle of your feline companion. With over 140 years of expertise at your fingertips, there’s always something new to learn about your kitty.

Behavior Help

Now you can get pet-behavior advice from ASPCA experts 24 hours a day, right from your computer. Our nationally recognized team of animal behaviorists offers possible solutions to a wide range of issues at no charge. Here are a few of our most popular behavior questions. Can't find what you need? Ask our Virtual Behaviorist.

Jan 13, 2011

Choosing A Healthy Dog Food

Choosing a Healthy Dog Food is natural dog food, holistic dog food, organic dog food - not a very difficult task:

The first thing you should check with your vet that could provide some useful recommendations on the appropriate type of dog food. Also, while initiating any change in diet to your dog gets to eat the right type of dog foods based on their race, digestive tract and lifestyle, please tell your veterinarian first so you can offer your valuable feedback.
Secondly, the Internet has a variety of selectors pet food and dog food tables of comparison can be useful for making the right choice for your pet food.
Thirdly, feedback from customer reviews on the best dog food can be very helpful.

The different types of dog food
The different types of dog food to choose from. You could, for example, either:

A generic supermarket brand. This type is usually adequate, but from inferior materials.
There is also the option of a quality mark recognized nationally. While having a better quality of ingredients, also have large burdens on them. However, it is always best to choose a premium brand through a brand of economics. There are several cheap dog food with unhealthy ingredients that can damage the health of your pet.
You also have the option to purchase dog health food, or you can make your own dog food.

Is your dog eating right? He is healthy?

While choosing healthy dog food, the first consideration is that the typical diet of a dog should consist of meat 40%, 30% starch, 30% fiber. pet food ingredient chosen keeping in mind this relationship.
Secondly you must ensure that some form of animal protein such as pork or chicken is the first ingredient on the label dog food. While the corn meal is used as a kind of food filling is not as satisfactory a source of good quality protein such as lamb. All types of needs animal fat to prevent most dogs find hard to digest. Preservatives in the form of vitamin A or vitamin C are very healthy for your dog.
Veterinarians disagree on which is healthier if your pet should have their food at one time to be eaten immediately, or a moderate amount of food is going to leave for the dog to graze on and eat at your leisure . Up to you to decide which will suit your dog the best in terms of energy and digestion.
If you are thinking of changing the diet of your dog, you have to make the change gradually, so that in a week, would be eating dog food again. Never make abrupt changes, otherwise your dog may suffer an upset stomach or vomiting.
If you intend to give your dog snacks in addition to regular dog food given in food, please make sure that is given only once a while, and should also be full of natural ingredients. The excess of snacks, especially between meals tend to make small dogs, overweight.
If your dog does not seem to be suffering from health disorders of any kind, and yet seems to be suffering from some type of behavioral disorder, then he should be seen by your vet and prescribed behavior - modifying drugs.
Note, therefore, that the best dog food is dog food holistic organic dog food, natural dog foods are those that contain the best dog food ingredients, and cater to individual preferences of the race. Decide what is healthy dog food for your pet, making a comparison of dog food, would be easier if you have this key factor into consideration.

Best Food for Dog

Like all other animals, dogs need to eat. While enjoying the food compared to dogs either holistic dog food, natural dog food, healthy dog food, organic dog food, we conclude that the best dog food for your pet based on your size and what kind of race it is. How do you intend to feed your dog and what kind of dog food ingredients entering the food will depend on the taste and personality of the dog.

There are several answers to the question - "What is the best dog food I can give my dog" The simple truth is that no single type of food best dog. There are several factors to consider when feeding your dog:

His Age
Remember to always choose the dog food carefully and in accordance with the appropriate age group. Puppies have different nutritional needs of older dogs. The dogs in different stages of life metabolize their food intake differently and require a different type of dog food. The best healthy dog food for puppies until the age of one year necessarily include nutritional supplements that promote health and vigor of your puppy. Condoms can help feed dogs food, but certainly not the artificial kind.

His Health
If your dog just suffered a serious illness or had surgery, his delicate health condition that requires a different level and type of food that was given earlier.

Activity levels
activity level of your dog is another major factor to consider when choosing among the best dog food. Dogs that are active need a different type of dog food and need to be fed more often and more regularly, than a sedentary dog would be used. If your dog is mainly the outdoor classroom, constantly running, digging, jumping, and help the family farm, then your dog's food should be full of protein and carbohydrates. Alternatively, if your dog spends most of his time by the fireplace, couch, or floor, then the best dog food would be low in fat and calories.

Preferences
Your dog is also an individual and at the same time making dog food comparisons it would be wise to take into account their individual tastes and preferences. If necessary, you can talk to your veterinarian to decide what the right kind of dog food ingredients to suit the individual needs of your dog. For example, dogs and puppies that suffer from irritable digestive tract could better digest a meal with rice and lamb instead of chicken and wheat, due to the different ways in which this type of food metabolism.

His Breed
For example, a German shepherd who have different dietary preferences, compared with a pet poodle. Similarly, small dogs can be very difficult to chew and digest food of a certain size and shape. If you have two different animal races at home, in fact, their diets differ dramatically.

Puppy Care Tips You Must Know

There are certain methods that must continue to care for your puppy, such as:
Worms Prevention
There are certain facts you need to consider when taking care of your puppy. They are:
Environment
Puppies should be wormed at the age of two weeks. They need to remain wormed at regular intervals. Puppies are born with worms. When puppies wormed, only a percentage of the worms die. When the pups are a lot of worms that may have the following symptoms pet illness:

* Eating much more than usual
* Weight loss
* A pot-bellied
* Vomiting
* Diarrhea
* Worms in the fetus

Exercise
Every puppy needs to be exercised. When the cubs are very small or very small, this exercise can be done at home. As a puppy grows, you will need to be walked. Ideally, dogs should be exercised every day. This can be done playing with your dog, throwing a ball or otherwise keep it active. Different breeds have different exercise requirements. Talk to your veterinarian about the best exercise for your dog. Ideally, you should find out what type of exercise your dog needs prior to purchase and bring him home.

Puppy Training
Dog training should begin when the dog is a puppy, a dog that has not been trained as a puppy is more difficult to train. Teaching your dog commands and work on your character can begin when the dog is about seven months. The coach must take into account the natural characteristics of the breed of dog. Use short commands to the different sounds of others, and reward your dog with a lot of praise and affection.

One type of training needed to begin as soon as the puppy comes home is house trained. They need to be trained where to go. This can be done at any time after the puppy is five weeks old. Dogs can be trained by them in a good place to go after you finish eating. When going in the right place, they respond with lots of praise.

What is your puppy's place in the family?
For your new puppy to be happy, you have to understand their place in the family. He has to understand that his master is. Make it clear that you are the master and a dominant position for him. The puppies are happy knowing that the teacher is. general submissive puppy will be fine once they feel secure in the family. assertive puppy may need more training in order to show who is master.

Working with an assertive puppy
Assertive puppies are over-protective and are considered as the protection of the family. They are often demanding when they want to be fed and start to play fight with other people. Assertive puppies can end up hurting people who are trying to defend themselves - which can include children. assertive dogs must show that the teacher is. Should not be allowed to cut or bite people, even if they are playing.

Working with a submissive Puppy
Most puppies will start at least a little submissive. Since they are not sure of their new situation, acting submissively until they feel safe. Submissive behavior may take the form of escape from new situations or new people. You can also take the form of bed when the puppy is facing a situation that is unsafe. submissive puppies must have a secure environment with a regular schedule. They should be given plenty of praise and teach him to behave so that the praise be given.

A word about Race
The different types of breeds have different characteristics and require different types of care. Pomeranian puppy care is not the same as the Great Dane puppy care. Similarly, new born puppies care is not the same care as that provided for an adult dog. More information about the breed of dog, and find the best type of care needed for that particular race.

Whether you are providing care or care Chihuahua Pomeranian puppy dog or any other puppy care, taking proper care of your puppy is essential. healthy and happy dogs do not happen. They need to be educated in an appropriate environment and given the right care new puppy. The best thing to do is spend some time thinking about caring for your new puppy before you take your puppy home.

Facts to Consider for Puppy Care

There are certain facts you need to consider when taking care of your puppy. They are:

Environment
There are many things a dog owner should consider when providing an environment for your puppy. There are three main factors to consider when preparing an environment for your puppy, comfort, safety and fun.

Comfort
Your puppy's environment should be comfortable. Create a comfortable bed for your puppy to sleep in that is protected and warm. Includes a blanket if you think your puppy needs a little extra heat.

Security
Your puppy's environment should be safe. Remove any objects that may be harmful to your dog. Remember that puppies are very curious and can get into things that are left on the ground.

Entertainment
Puppies get bored easily. Includes lots of toys and things for your puppy to play. This is particularly important when you can not spend time with your dog. A bored puppy can complain, flee or destroy things in the backyard

Food
The puppies need to eat a balanced diet consisting of foods suitable for puppies. Food is available on the market that are specially made for puppies, and include all the necessary nutrients and the nutrients it needs a puppy. However, it is not essential to buy special puppy food. Puppy owners can give your puppy a balanced diet and nutritious food to natural foods. Some good foods for puppies are:
* Milk
* Chicken
* Chicken heart
* Avena
* Vegetables
* Cooked rice
* Carrots
* Cheese.
If you decide to feed your dog homemade natural foods, then you may need to talk to your vet about supplements. If a puppy is not getting enough calcium or vitamins, then supplements will be needed.
Puppies should be fed in the same place and hour of every day. You need four meals a day to four months. After that you need three meals a day until they are eight months old. It takes two meals a day until they are twelve months old, and then a meal the next day.

Vaccination
When puppies are born, can have some protection against disease if their mother has been vaccinated. The protection comes through the mother's milk. Puppies should be vaccinated at about six weeks to nine weeks old. Some puppies can be vaccinated at this age. A veterinarian will be able to tell the best time for your puppy to be vaccinated.
After initial vaccination, boosters should be determined. In general, these are given three weeks after the initial vaccination.
Different dogs may need to be vaccinated against various diseases. Some of the diseases your dog can be vaccinated against include distemper, parvovirus, parainfluenza, lyme disease, rabies and coronavirus.
When you take your puppy to be vaccinated, ask your vet for a checkup and discuss any health problems dog with him or her.

Rabies Prevention
Rabies is a serious disease that is transmitted in the saliva of an infected animal. It is very important that your puppy receives a vaccine against this disease. Talk to your veterinarian about the best time to get your puppy's first rabies vaccination. Different veterinarians to vaccination at different times. You should also check that the rules are in your state regarding vaccination against rabies and find out what the weather is legally required to have your dog vaccinated.

Puppy Care

You can be that I have a dog, because his fantasy for him. But no one knows how to take good care of him. You do not know what might be good and what is going to be harmful to him, pet sales. The article describes certain information provided in the care of puppy. Take a look at that.

Getting a new puppy can be exciting, but brings with it the responsibility of caring for the new puppy. If your puppy is a Pomeranian and Chihuahua puppy needs to be carefully thought out and act accordingly to ensure that your puppy remains happy and healthy. This article will provide you with my tips for caring for the dog to help you care for your new puppy.

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Pets play an important role in the home and can be wonderful companions for children, adults and seniors. The bond that forms between a family and your pet is sometimes difficult for non pet owners to understand, but for all who have or have had a pet in our home, we know that the joy and pleasure these faithful companions can bring.

Possession and doesnot care for a family pet has to be a difficult or burdensome experience. Simplepetcare.com is a free resource that was created for pet lovers like you to take the mystery and difficulty of caring for pets every day. Dogs, cats and birds, reptiles and small rodents youâ € ™ ll find all the information needed to properly care for your pet.

Through a bit of knowledge and special care, can make your pet a healthy part, happy home for the next few years. We invite you to explore the variety of pet care information on our website. Finding new and exciting to keep up on the latest pet care tips and tricks simple Pets blog or just let your voice be heard by sharing your own experience of pets in our Pet Care Forum. In addition, we invite you to search our pet supplies essential information regarding pet care, health and other issues related to lifestyle.

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