How to Read Pet Food Labels

By learning how to read a label, you can learn a great deal of information about the food you are feeding your pets. You can even learn how to compare one food to another and choose the one best suited for your cat.

As with human food labels, pet food labels are strictly regulated by the federal government, the Food and Drug Administration and the Department of Agriculture, and must follow stringent guidelines. Pet food labels are typically divided into two separate sections: the principal product display and information about the food.

Principal Display – Product Name
This part of the pet food label contains the brand name of the food as well as the specific food or formula contained in the can. It lists which meat is primarily used in the food and may indicate for which age group the food is intended (growing, maintenance, adult). The product weight, in grams and ounces, is also included.
The principal display also includes the type of animal the food is meant for – dogs or cats.

How the product is listed on the label is also strictly regulated. In order to call something "Salmon Cat Food," at least 95 percent of the product must be the named meat, without counting the moisture content. If the moisture content is included, at least 70 percent of the product must be the meat listed. If the name has a combination of meats, such as "Chicken and Salmon," the two products together must be 95 percent of the product with the first ingredient listed more prevalent.

If the amount of the meat is over 25 percent but less than 95 percent, a qualifier must be added. The word dinner is a commonly added qualifier but platter, entrée, nuggets and formula are also common. Also, just because this product name says "chicken formula" doesn't mean beef or fish are not added. Check the ingredient list to find out which meats are also included.

Another rule regarding product name is the newly approved use of "with." In pet food such as "Cat Food with Chicken," since the word "chicken" follows "with," that food must have at least three percent of the food as chicken. This wording can fool some people. "Tuna Cat Food" is very different than "Cat Food with Tuna." The first has 95 percent tuna. The second only has three percent tuna.

Informational Section
In addition to displaying the product name, brand name, weight and intended species, the pet food label also includes a more complex section. The informational section contains a list of ingredients, the guaranteed analysis, feeding instructions and nutritional adequacy claim. This is the part of the label that is most important when comparing different foods and determining the nutrients in the product.

Ingredient List
The list of ingredients must be in descending order. This means that the most prevalent part of the diet is listed first and then following by each ingredient in order by weight. If your pet needs a diet low in protein, considered getting a food with several carbohydrates listed in the top five ingredients. If your pet needs high protein, get a food with the first two ingredients as meat products.

Guaranteed Analysis
This section of the pet food label lists the amounts of each ingredient contained in the food. Typically, the minimum amount of the ingredients is listed and not always the exact amount. When comparing one product to another, you must take moisture content into account. The ingredients should be compared on a dry matter basis. This means that if 82 percent moisture is present in the food, the remaining items comprise 18 percent of the diet. The minimum values listed for each ingredient (besides water) should be divided by 0.18 in order to get a dry matter amount. Now two products can be compared fairly. For information on minimum nutrient guidelines set forth by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), see Dietary Requirements in Cats.

Feeding Instructions
Each pet food lists how much of the food to feed per day. It is up to you to decide whether to feed as one meal or split into several throughout the day. The feeding instructions should be considered suggestions and not rules. A variety of factors will determine if your specific pet needs more or less of the food.

Nutritional Adequacy Claim
This section of the information area lists the life stage for which the food is made, such as "for maintenance," "for growth" or "for all life stages." If the pet food follows the guidelines set forth by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), the label will include a statement that says the food provides complete and balanced nutrition for a particular life stage. It will also list if the food is meant as a treat or a supplement and should be fed in combination with other foods.

Can Cats Get Heartworm Disease?

Mosquito season is almost here. Can your indoor cat – the one that never goes out – be at risk for heartworm disease? Heartworm disease is a parasitic disease that involves a long thin worm that lives in the blood vessels and heart of infected pets. It is transmitted by mosquitoes and can infect both dogs and cats.

Cats that are indoors may actually be at higher risk than cats that go out. In fact, up to 33 percent of reported cases are in cats who are described by their owners as "strictly indoors." Males are a bit more likely than females to be affected. Age is not a risk factor; cats of any age can be affected, with cats as young as 1 and as old as 17 having been diagnosed.

Heartworms are present (endemic) in most parts of the United States and in many parts of North America. Mosquitoes are the key – without them the disease cannot spread.The highest rate of infections is found in subtropical climates like those of the southeastern United States, the Gulf States, and Hawaii.

However, heartworms are also found throughout the central and eastern United States, particularly near oceans, lakes and rivers. When compared to dogs, cats are naturally resistant to heartworms (estimated at about one-fifth as likely to become seriously infected as dogs in the same region); however, heartworm disease in cats is often more severe than in dogs.

Prevention
Prevention of heartworm disease is simple. "Preventatives" kill microscopic larvae that are left behind by mosquitoes when they bite a cat. In most cases, a once-monthly pill (Interceptor® brand of milbemycin for cats or Heartgard® brand of ivermectin for cats) is effective in preventing heartworms from taking hold. A recently available preventative for heartworms, Revolution® brand of selamectin, is applied to the skin once monthly. Revolution can also control fleas. Both Heartgard® for cats and Revolution® also help to prevent intestinal parasites.

Recommendations
Owners of all cats living in areas endemic for heartworms should discuss the pros and cons of preventative care with their veterinarian. If dogs in the area receive heartworm prevention, it is likely that cats also may benefit from this protection. Interceptor® for cats, Heartgard® for cats and Revolution® for cats are safe and effective products. Do NOT use your canine heartworm medicine in your cat. The drug dosing is very different between species. Speak to your veterinarian about the need for preventative therapy, administration guidelines and when to start and stop prevention treatments.

Heartworm disease in cats can have a wide range of symptoms, with some cats being completely asymptomatic (no symptoms at all). Others may show vague, generalized clinical symptoms. A small percentage, however, may show severe life threatening symptoms.

Pros and Cons of Spaying and Neutering in Cats

It's time to start thinking about spaying or neutering your cat. But, you are not quite sure if it is the right thing to do. If you're wondering whether you should just leave your cat as nature intended, consider the positive and negative aspects of spaying and neutering before making your decision.

First, what does neutering mean? Neutering is a procedure used to "de-sex" an animal. This procedure has been used to control animal population growth, reduce unwanted sexual behavior in pets, and decrease or eliminate the possibility of certain disease conditions later in life, such as pyometra or infection in the uterus.

Castration is a term used to describe the removal of the gonads (testicles) in male animals. Spaying is a term used to describe the sterilization procedure of females. The procedure of spaying most often consists of removal of both the ovaries and uterus, which is called an ovariohysterectomy.
 Both procedures are performed under general anesthesia and both involve a surgical incision.

Neutering is done most commonly at or around six months of age. However, many veterinarians perform this procedure earlier – as early as 8 to 10 weeks in some situations. Early neutering can be done safely and has a number of advantages, especially in cases of pet adoption.

Spaying – The Positive Side

Spaying removes the risk of pregnancy.
Pet overpopulation is a serious problem and by allowing your cat to have litters, you are adding to the problem. Finding homes for your new family additions is not as easy as you may think. Even if you choose to keep the kittens, you will have the additional cost of vaccines, parasite control, toys and food for several pets. In addition to costs, the health of the mother can be in jeopardy during delivery. Some new mothers can have serious complications delivering kittens and can even develop health problems during nursing. All these potential problems can be avoided by spaying your cat.

Spaying makes for a calmer cat.
Without the drive to mate, your cat may be quieter and won't be prone to cat calls and the incessant need to seek out a mate. The spayed pet no longer attracts males and their annoying advances and serenades. Spayed cats are also easier to get along with. They tend to be more gentle and affectionate.

Spaying keeps your cat healthier.
A final positive aspect of spaying your cat is that spayed cats tend to have fewer health problems. Spaying is the removal of the ovaries and uterus. Without these organs, ovarian cysts, uterine infections and cancer of the reproductive tract are no longer a concern.

Spaying – The Negative Side

Spaying means sterilization.
Spaying will result in the sterilization of your cat, and she will no longer have the ability to become pregnant. In the era of pet overpopulation and the fact that thousands of unwanted pets are euthanized each year, this is really not so bad.

Spaying may cause weight gain.
Some cats may gain weight after spaying and as they get older. Unspayed animals typically have a strong mating desire and can expend a lot of energy seeking a mate and reproducing. Without this energy burden, your cat may eat the same amount but not burn off as many calories. Cutting back on food intake or increasing your pets activity will help reduce weight gain.

Neutering – The Positive Side

Neutering removes the risk of pregnancy.
Pet overpopulation is a serious issue and by allowing your cat to breed, you are adding to the problem. Although you may not own the female cat, and you are not burdened with finding homes for those new kittens, someone else is. Even if you accept your responsibility and choose to keep the kittens, you will have the additional cost of vaccines, parasite control, toys and food for several pets.

Neutering makes for a cleaner, calmer pet.
Another positive aspect of neutering your cat is that neutering can result in a calmer, and sometimes cleaner, home. Without the drive to mate, your cat may be quieter and not prone to cat calls and an incessant need to seek out a mate. The neutered cat no longer feels the need to seek out and serenade females. He no longer has the stress of needing to mark his territory and urinate throughout the house and yard. Neutered cats are also easier to get along with. They tend to more gentle and affectionate. Neutered males tend to roam less and typically are not involved in as many fights with other animals.

Neutering keeps your pet healthier.
A final positive aspect of neutering your cat is that neutered cats tend to have fewer health problems. Neutering is the removal of the testicles. Without these organs, testicular cancer is no longer a concern and the risk of prostate problems is reduced. For those people who would like to sterilize their cat but do not wish to alter his appearance, testicular implants are available.

Neutering – The Negative Side

Neutering is sterilization.
Neutering will result in the sterilization of your cat.

Neutering may cause weight gain.
Some cats gain weight after neutering. Intact animals typically have a strong mating desire and can expend a lot of energy seeking a mate and reproducing. Without this energy burden, your cat may eat the same amount but not burn off as many calories. Cutting back on his food or increasing his activity can help reduce the weight gain.

Last year about 17 million dogs and cats were turned over to animal shelters. Only one out of every 10 taken in to the shelters found a home. This means that over 13.5 million had to be destroyed. The tragedy is that this is unnecessary. Much of the problem could be eliminated by simple surgery: Spaying and neutering operations are performed under general anesthesia and are quite painless. By neutering pets, owners can help lower the numbers of unwanted and homeless creatures.

Grooming Your Cat

Believe it or not, most cats need a little help with their grooming – and owners should pay attention to their cats' eyes, ears and coat.

Whether purebred or mixed breed, a key to good grooming lies in the length of a cat's coat. A cat with a very short, single coat similar to the Siamese, Burmese and Cornish rex needs very little grooming. The dense-coated shorthaired cats like American shorthairs, British shorthairs and Scottish folds require a monthly grooming session. Semi-longhaired cats resembling Maine coons should be combed and bathed even more regularly. Cats with long, flowing coats resembling the Persian should be combed and have their faces cleaned at least every other day, and they should be bathed weekly or bi-weekly. Their ears should also be cleaned.

Combing and Brushing Your Cat

The coat is the biggest grooming hurdle and can fall prey to shedding, a greasy consistency and mats (clumps of matted hair that are anchored to your cat's coat). Remember to comb gently from front-to-back and reassure your cat with a soothing voice. Do this as much as needed to keep shedding and knots to a minimum. The proper combs and brushes can help.

Belgian greyhound combs or just "greyhound combs" are the best to use with longhaired cats. Many of these combs have a coloured anti-static coating and goes through matts very easily. www.greyhoundcomb.com. Sometimes vendors at cat shows carry them. Peak Pro Tech combs can be ordered from veterinary catalogs and are comparable to the greyhound comb. The best size to use with longhaired cats and cats with dense coats is a 7.5-inch-by-one-inch comb that has both coarse and fine teeth. Combs that are 4.5 inches by one inch are good for all breeds. Those come in "fine/fine," "coarse/coarse" and "coarse/fine" teeth.

Pin brushes are good for longhaired coats, as are boar's hair bristle brushes. Boar's hair bristle brushes work well with dense-coated shorthaired cats also. The type of brush used depends on how well it does with the individual coat. A rubber curry brush is best for single, close-coated cats.

Taking Care of Mats

The dreaded mat can form on even the most well-groomed cats, especially during seasonal shedding. If you find these clumps of dried, tangled hair in your cat's fur, never try to cut them out because you could slip and cut your cat's skin. It is better to work out a mat with a grooming comb.

With one hand, try to hold the hair as close to its base as possible without pulling directly on the cat's skin. Hold the grooming comb in your other hand and use the tip to pick at the mat gently until it begins to loosen up. As it starts to break apart from the coat, it can easily be combed out. Repeat as necessary.

Cleaning Your Cats Eyes

Eye matter can be a problem in big-eyed, short-nosed cats – breeds like the Persian that have that "mushed-in" look to their faces. The large eye openings and the small distance from the tear ducts to the nose in these cats create an area for more tearing to occur than usual. Rather than pooling into tear ducts, the tears spill over the lower eyelids. Once the tears come in contact with air, they are "oxidized" and turn brown, staining the area below the eyes and creating a glue-like substance that needs to be cleaned out to keep the area healthy and the cat comfortable.

To clean the eyes use a soft washcloth or a cotton square dipped in tepid water. Hold your cat's head and wipe the damp cloth gently across her lower eyelid. Be careful not to rub the eyeball directly. Let the moisture soften the eye matter and then go back and wipe again. Make sure you use a fresh section of the cloth each time.

Bathing Your Cat

Sometimes greasy coats, allergies and plain old dirt require a cat to have a good bath. This can be tricky because cats usually don't like water. It is best to introduce a cat to bathing as a kitten so that baths become less stressful with time.

The process requires a medicated baby shampoo and a good animal shampoo manufactured by a company such as Lambert-Kay, Ring 5, Tomlyn or Vita-coat. Experiment with various brands to see what works best for your kitty. It is also a good idea to buy mild eye drops or ointments from your veterinarian to guard against soap getting into your cat's eyes. You may also need a wetting agent, a de-greaser and a conditioner to release the tangles in your cat's coat. Use a sprayer attachment for rinsing and keep towels nearby. To bathe and dry your cat, follow these steps:

Apply mild eye drops or ointment to the eyes to protect them from soap.

Fill the sink with tepid water and, if possible, add around three capfuls of a wetting agent like Shaklee's Basic H (which is non-toxic). Place your cat in the water. Using a plastic cup, pour this water mixture over the cat's body until the hair starts to part and the hair shaft becomes wet all the way to the skin. Do not get water in your cat's ears and never pour water over the head

Drain the water from the sink. To cleanse kitty's head, use a mild tearless baby shampoo only. Put a small amount on a wet washcloth and gently wash around the eyes, mouth, cheeks and forehead. Then rinse the cloth and go over the face to remove the soap.

If your cat has an extremely greasy coat, this is the time to apply a de-greaser. Fast Orange is a non-toxic de-greaser that can be found in supermarkets. Spread it liberally throughout the coat and then rinse it out.

Choose the shampoo that works the best for your cat's coat and apply and rinse off at least two or three times.

Rinsing is extremely important. Fill the wash basin with two or three inches of water until the bottom part of the cat's fur starts to float in the water. Keep rinsing until there is no residue. Use a cup to scoop the basin water over the cat's body and keep doing it until the coat is free of shampoo. Empty the soapy water from the sink and refill with clear water as needed.

If the cat's coat needs a conditioner, this is the time to apply it. Then rinse with water again.

A final rinse of a half cup vinegar to two quarts water will remove any traces of soap residue.

Rinse with tepid water a final time.

Clean the ears with a soft Q-tip dipped in otic solution, which you can purchase from vet catalogs.

Blot the fur with a dry towel. A single-coated or dense shorthaired cat can be towel dried and placed in a warm bathroom until he is completely dried.

The longer the coat, the more important it is to use combs and brushes at this point.

Dryers are a matter of preference, but it is nice to have one for a longhaired cat. Oster makes a table dryer that many breeders use. A Superduck Dryer is a little less costly and works well.

Dry the upper body by blow-drying backward against the lay of the hair. Work along the sides, forward to the front legs and up the neck. Each section should be totally dry before moving on or the hair will curl. The tail, belly and back legs should be done last because cats tend to have a lower tolerance in these areas. This way, if there is going to be a disagreement, it will come at the end of the grooming session.

How to Brush Your Cat's Teeth

Dental disease (especially periodontal disease) is the most common disease in our feline companions. It is also one of the most preventable and treatable disease. We can reduce or even prevent dental disease by feeding a crunchy diet and daily tooth brushing. The following are steps to guide you on how to brush your cat's teeth:

The first step is to start with a clean, healthy mouth, such as with a young pet with healthy new teeth and gums or after your cat has had a professional dental cleaning.

You will need a soft-bristled tooth brush and veterinary toothpaste. Human toothpastes and baking soda may cause problems. Veterinary toothpastes have flavors that are appealing to cats. Anything other than a bristled tooth brush will not get below the gum line (the most important area to brush).

There are several important facts about our pets' mouths that tell us when, where, and how to brush.

Periodontal disease usually affects the upper, back teeth first and worst. Plaque builds up on the tooth surface daily, especially just under the gum line. It takes less than 36 hours for this plaque to become mineralized and harden into "tartar" (calculus) that cannot be removed with a brush. Because of this progression, brushing should be done daily, with a brush to remove the plaque from under the gum line.

Pick a time of day that will become a convenient part of your pet's and your daily routine. Brushing before a daily treat can help your pet actually look forward to brushing time. Take a few days to let both of you get use to the process. Follow with praise and a treat each time.

Start by offering her a taste of the veterinary toothpaste. The next time, let her taste the toothpaste, then run your finger along the gums of the upper teeth. Repeat the process with the tooth brush. Get the bristles of the brush along the gum line of the upper back teeth and angle slightly up, so the bristles get under the gum line. Work from back to front, making small circles along the gum lines. It should take you less than 30 seconds to brush your pet's teeth. Do not try to brush the entire mouth at first. If all that your pet lets you brush is the outside of the upper teeth, you are still addressing the most important area of periodontal disease - prevention. If your pet eventually allows you to brush most of her teeth, so much the better.

Even with the best tooth brushing, some cats may still need an occasional professional cleaning, just like humans. By brushing your pet's teeth daily and curtailing the amount of periodontal disease, you may reduce the frequency and involvement of dental cleanings and provide your pet with a healthier, sweeter smile.

 

Vaccination

Feline Vaccine Recommendations

Vaccinations have saved the lives of millions of cats. Before the days of effective vaccines, cats routinely died from panleukopenia ("feline distemper") and complications of upper respiratory (herpesvirus, calicivirus) infections. Newer vaccines are available to protect against feline leukemia virus infection, feline infectious peritonitis virus and other infections (chlamydia, feline bordetella, ringworm). Current vaccination programs also protect our cats (and us) from the threat of rabies.

Traditional vaccines are administered by injection (shots), but newer vaccines can be administered through the nostrils and have been developed to protect against a variety of infections. Despite the well-known benefits of vaccination, the practice of annual vaccination of mature cats is controversial. Some veterinarians believe that annual revaccination is an important and critical part of preventative health care.

Others suggest that there is little scientific information to suggest that annual revaccination of older cats is necessary for some diseases because immunity to many viruses probably persists for the life of the animal.

The major concern about repeated vaccinations in cats is the issue of feline vaccine-associated sarcoma, a cancer that develops in approximately 1 of every 1,000 cats to as few as 1 in every 10,000 cats near the site of vaccination. Certainly routine vaccinations are essential for prevention of infectious diseases in kittens. Of course, some vaccines(rabies) are required by law and must be administered on a regular basis. Kittens receive immunity against infectious disease in the mother's milk; however, this protection begins to disappear in the first few months of life.

To protect kittens during this critical time, a well-researched approach is taken: A series of vaccines is given every 3 to 4 weeks until the chance of contracting an infectious disease is very low. The typical vaccine is a "combination" that protects against feline distemper virus, feline calicivirus, and feline herpesvirus. Rabies vaccines are given between 16 and 26 weeks of age in most states (governed by law). Some cats are also immunized against feline leukemia virus. The usual approach is to test the kitten for feline leukemia at the time of initial vaccination to ensure the cat is not harboring the virus. The use of other vaccinations is on a case-by-case basis. Booster immunizations are given during the first one or two years of "adult" life. Thereafter, the issue becomes cloudier. Don't be surprised if you encounter different views about booster immunizations. There has been insufficient research conducted in this area of long-term protection vs. risk of vaccine-associated sarcoma (tumors).        

Recommendations

You should discuss all vaccination programs with your veterinarian.

Kittens between 4 and 20 weeks of age: A series of vaccines is recommended. These should begin between 6 and 8 weeks of age and continue every 3 to 4 weeks until the chance of contracting an infectious disease is very low (typically the last "shot" is given between 14 and 16 weeks of age). The vaccines should protect against feline panleukopenia ("distemper") and the upper respiratory viruses (herpesvirus, calicivirus).

If the risk of feline leukemia virus exposure is significant (out-of-doors cats), the leukemia virus vaccine sequence should be administered. Other vaccines are given on a case-by-case basis. Some veterinarians use traditional "shots" for vaccination while others use a combination of injections and intra-nasal vaccines. The rabies vaccines should be given as required by local laws.

Cats between 20 weeks and 2 years of age: It is typical to booster the kitten shots in young adult cats to insure adequate lifelong immunity against deadly viral diseases. Your veterinarian will likely "booster" your cat to protect against feline panleukopenia ("distemper"), the upper respiratory viruses (herpesvirus, calicivirus), rabies, and possibly the leukemia virus.

Cats older than 2 years of age: Annual revaccination (booster shots) is recommended the first year after the "kitten shots"; thereafter, you should discuss the benefits and risks of annual vaccination with your veterinarian. There is no national accepted standard at this time. Many veterinarians stagger booster immunizations over a number of years. The rabies vaccines should be given as recommended by local law.

Flea Control

Flea Control and Prevention in Cats

For millions of pets and people, the tiny flea is a remorseless enemy. The flea is a small, brown, wingless insect that uses specialized mouth parts to pierce the skin and siphon blood.

When a flea bites your cat, it injects a small amount of saliva into the skin to prevent blood coagulation. Some animals may have fleas without showing discomfort, but an unfortunate number of cats become sensitized to this saliva. In highly allergic animals, the bite of a single flea can cause severe itching and scratching. Fleas cause the most common skin disease of cats – flea allergy dermatitis.

If your pet develops hypersensitivity to flea saliva, several changes may result:

A small hive may develop at the site of the fleabite, which either heals or develops into a tiny red bump that eventually crusts over.

The cat may scratch and chew at herself until the area is hairless, raw and weeping serum ("hot spots").

This can cause hair loss, redness, scaling, bacterial infection and increased pigmentation of the skin.
The distribution often involves the lower back, base of the tail, toward the back, the abdomen, flanks and neck. It may become quite generalized in the severe case, leading to total body involvement.

Remember that the flea spends the majority of its life in the environment, not on your pet, so it may be difficult to find. In fact, your cat may continue to scratch without you ever seeing a flea on her. Check your cat carefully for fleas or for signs of flea excrement (also called flea dirt), which looks like coarsely ground pepper. When moistened, flea dirt turns a reddish brown because it contains blood. If one cat in the household has fleas, assume that all pets in the household have fleas. A single flea found on your pet means that there are probably hundreds of fleas, larva, pupa and eggs in your house.

If you see tapeworm segments in your cat's stool, he may have had fleas at one time or may still have them. The flea can act as an intermediate host of the tapeworm, Dipylidium caninum. Through grooming or biting, the animal ingests an adult flea containing tapeworm eggs. Once released, the tapeworm grows to maturity in the small intestine. The cycle can take less than a month, so a key to tapeworm prevention is flea control.

The Life Cycle of the Flea
The flea's life cycle has four stages: egg, larva, pupa and adult. The adult flea uses your cat as a place to take its blood meals and breed. Fleas either lay eggs directly on the cat where they may drop off, or deposit eggs into the immediate surroundings (your home or backyard). Because the female may lay several hundred eggs during the course of its life, the number of fleas present intensifies the problem. The eggs hatch into larvae that live in carpeting, cracks or corners of the cat's living area. The larvae survive by ingesting dried blood, animal dander and other organic matter. To complete the life cycle, larvae develop into pupae that hatch into adults. The immediate source of adult fleas within the house is the pupa, not the cat. The adult flea emerges from the pupa and then hops onto the host.

This development occurs more quickly in a warm, humid environment. Pupae can lie dormant for months, but under temperate conditions fleas complete their life cycle in about three weeks. The inside of your home may provide a warm environment to allow fleas to thrive year round.

Fighting the Flea
Types of commercial products available for flea control include flea collars, shampoos, sprays, powders and dips. Other, newer, products include oral and systemic spot-on insecticides.

In the past, topical insecticide sprays, powders and dips were the most popular. However, the effect was often temporary. Battling infestations requires attacking areas where the eggs, larvae, pupae and adults all congregate. Because some stages of a flea's life can persist for months, chemicals with residual action are needed and should be repeated periodically. Sprays or foggers, which require leaving the house for several hours, should be used twice in 2-week intervals and then every two months during the flea season.

Treating animals and their living areas thoroughly and at the same time is vital; otherwise some fleas will survive and re-infest your pet. You may even need to treat your yard or kennel with an insecticide, if the infestation is severe enough.

The vacuum cleaner can be a real aid in removing flea eggs and immature forms. Give special attention to cracks and corners. At the end of vacuuming, either vacuum up some flea powder into your vacuum bag, or throw the bag out. Otherwise, the cleaner will only serve as an incubator, releasing more fleas into the environment as they hatch. In some cases, you may want to obtain the services of a licensed pest control company. These professionals have access to a variety of insecticides and they know what combinations work best in your area.

Treatment & Prevention

 As one might expect, flea control through these methods is very time consuming, expensive and difficult. The good news is that currently, with the newer flea products on the market, flea control is much safer, more effective and environmentally friendly. Current flea control efforts center on oral and topical systemic treatments. These products not only treat existing flea problems, they also are very useful for prevention. In fact, prevention is the most effective and easiest method of flea control.

One group of products works to control fleas by interrupting their development by killing flea larva and eggs. These drugs are called insect growth regulators (IGRs). These products do not kill adult fleas, but they dramatically decrease the flea population by arresting their development. One common oral product used is lufenuron (Program®). Lufenuron is also available as an injection that lasts 6 months. Methoprene and pyriproxifen (Nylar®) are also very effective IGRs that are available as sprays or collars.

Other products kill the actual flea (adulticides) and work quite rapidly. These include both spot-on and oral products. Spot-on products are usually applied on your pet's skin between the shoulders. The medication is absorbed into your pet's skin and distributed throughout the body. Fleas are killed rapidly on contact with the skin. Spot-on products include fipronil (Frontline®), Metaflumizone (ProMeris®), imidacloprid (Advantage®) and selamectin (Revolution®).

A recently developed oral adulticide is nitenpyram (Capstar®), that when given begins to kill fleas in 30 minutes.

All these products are safer, easier to use and, if used correctly, the most effective method of flea control. Additionally, some have the added benefit of efficacy against other parasites. Some veterinarians are even recommending a combination of an adulticide and insect growth regulator (Frontline Plus®) as a more complete method of flea control.

With all these choices it is best to consult your veterinarian as to the best flea control and prevention for your pet. The choice of flea control should depend on your pet's life-style and potential for exposure. Through faithful use of these systemic monthly flea products, the total flea burden on your pet and in the immediate environment can be dramatically reduced. Keeping your pet on monthly flea treatments, especially in areas of high flea risk, is an excellent preventive method of flea control. These products often eliminate the need for routine home insecticidal use, especially in the long run. Although it may still be prudent in heavy flea environments to treat the premises initially, the advent of these newer systemic flea products has dramatically simplified flea control.