Ear cleaning
You should regularly check inside your rabbit ears to ensure that no accumulation of wax or other debris. If so, take your rabbit to the vet. Rabbits can get ear mites, which cause itching and a build up of nasty things. Never insert anything into the ears of your rabbit, as you can damage the inner ear.
Fuzzy wash your face
Do I have to wash my rabbit? NO! Never wash a rabbit unless it is very dirty or soiled himself. Rabbits can go into shock when immersed in water. Rabbits are a very good job of staying clean and just need help when they are very sick. If you must wash her pussy, fill a bath / tub with about an inch of water. Place a towel on the bottom of the bath so that the rabbit has some grip. Use a little mild shampoo or soap in the water. Try to keep the front half of rabbit out of the water. This may stop their struggle. Gently rub the hindpaw / tail area with your fingers and remove any poop. Council water and then replace it with clean water to rinse the rabbit. Use towels and paper towels to dry as best you can, then use a hair dryer to direct the hot air in the general area of the rabbit. Do not point the hairdryer in the rabbit, as it can burn the skin. In general, rabbits will try to lick it dry. Do not be surprised if your rabbit sulks for a while afterwards!
The scent glands cleaning
Rabbits have a scent gland on both sides of his anus. Scent gland cleaning needs such as the fragrance is a liquid that can clog the gland. It is a disgusting smelly work, but you have to do. To clean the scent glands out, get a cotton ball and soak it in warm water. You may have to get someone to help keep the rabbit upside down safely. Gently clean in the scent glands until the download is dropped. If you have trouble quitting, ask your vet to do it for you.
Nail / Claw trimming
clippers rabbits need their claws trimmed every 4-6 weeks. The claws are like nails, and never stop growing. Most domestic rabbits are not used his claws enough, so you will have to be cut. You can do it yourself with nail clippers, or you can take your rabbit to a vet. If you're doing to yourself, helps shine a light under the nail so you can ensure that you do not put the blood vessel (the pink bit).
Brushing
Rabbits moult several times a year and have central heating in the interior of the house must be confused. A soft brush can be used to brush your hair excessively. Rabbits are good at keeping your skin clean and tidy, which need not bother to brush every day.
Eyes
Sometimes the rabbits sleep in their eyes. Just wipe this away for them. If excess dirt or a lot of tears, the rabbit may have a problem. Take your rabbit to the vet. Useful information - Bunnies have a third eyelid, and is not necessary to open and close very often. That's how you can sleep with open eyes.
Fleas
If your rabbit is scratching himself a lot, most likely has fleas. Fleas are tiny flying insects are dark brown. They are not easy to find in all that rabbit skin, but can see little black specs of fleas that shit is behind us. Fleas need to be addressed as soon as possible to sit flea larvae in rabbits, rugs, carpet and hair anything like that. The best flea treatment for rabbits is Revolution. The dose should be prepared on the basis of body weight of rabbit, and then applied to the back of the neck of the rabbit. This is what it is not prepared or lick. Rabbits should be separated after treatment to ensure they do not lick the flea treatment each of the skin. Any carpet or material elements, for example. towels, which have been around the rabbit should be washed in hot water to kill larvae eggs. Treatment of revolution has a duration of one month, but rabbits may need additional treatment if there are more fleas have hatched from eggs.
Jan 23, 2011
Top 10 Disaster Readiness Tips for Horses
The focus is on equine partner in this special disaster preparedness themed Top 10 list. As the saying goes, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." If you own a horse, it really is worth disaster plan rather than wait for a strike. To help protect your horse from the dangers of natural disasters and accidents ordinary, the ASPCA has provided this list of 10 critical actions to take.
1. Keep it clean Keep a clean and tidy pasture and stable. Remove flammable and hazardous materials, debris and machinery around the barn aisles, entrances and exits. Periodically inspect the site and disposal of hazardous waste on the grass.
2. Shaky Ground
Regularly maintain and inspect plants and septic tanks barn. Many accidents occur when horses fall through floors and old septic tanks on the ground.
3. No smoking
Fire prevention through the establishment of a policy of not smoking around your barn.
4. Risky Business
Avoid using or leaving the machine in the barn unless someone is present. plastic buckets with built-in heaters and clothes dryers are responsible for many fire barn. Even seemingly innocuous devices like the box fans, heaters and power tools can overheat. exposed wiring can also lead to electrical fires in the stable, how can a simple push of an animal that accidentally hit more than one machine.
5. Get Moving
Get your horse used to wearing a halter, and get used to tow. Should be practiced regularly quickly get your horse into a trailer for the same reason that schools have fire drills, ask a group of children out of practice out of a burning building in a quiet way is a bit unrealistic, since is seeking a new and strange behavior of his horse. Remember, practice makes perfect!
6. The right equipment for the job
If you own a trailer, check it regularly. ordinary wear and tear trailer can result in structural disruption, leading to entirely avoidable accidents. Also, make sure your towing vehicle is suitable for the size and weight of the trailer and horse. Many accidents occur because the vehicles are not able to manage the size and weight of the trailer.
Always make sure the trailer is properly hooked-fixed hitch ball, safety chains or cables connected, and the battery charged and the emergency brake is linked to vehicle towing. the correct tire pressure (as shown on the tire sidewall) is also very important.
7. His horse is a social animal?
Get your horse well socialized and accustomed to being handled by all sorts of strange. If possible, invite the emergency services and / or members of your local fire department to interact with your horse. Be of mutual benefit so that they know. Fire team participation can smell like smoke and look unusual, that many find frightening horses, asking him to use his usual response team to get your horse to look and smell.
8. Make friends with Fire
Know your emergency services and show the design of the property so they are familiar with their horses and risks and extent of the property.
9. Phone tree
Establish a phone tree / buddy system with other horse owners and farms nearby. This could prove very valuable in case-o-need to evacuate the animals and share resources such as trailers, grazing, or extra hands!
10. Very important documents
Keep equine veterinary records in a safe place where you can reach quickly. Be sure to send the emergency phone numbers near the phone. Include your veterinarian 24 hour emergency services and friends. You should also keep a copy for emergency services in the barn, which includes phone numbers for you, your emergency contact, and several friends veterinarian 24 hours.
1. Keep it clean Keep a clean and tidy pasture and stable. Remove flammable and hazardous materials, debris and machinery around the barn aisles, entrances and exits. Periodically inspect the site and disposal of hazardous waste on the grass.
2. Shaky Ground
Regularly maintain and inspect plants and septic tanks barn. Many accidents occur when horses fall through floors and old septic tanks on the ground.
3. No smoking
Fire prevention through the establishment of a policy of not smoking around your barn.
4. Risky Business
Avoid using or leaving the machine in the barn unless someone is present. plastic buckets with built-in heaters and clothes dryers are responsible for many fire barn. Even seemingly innocuous devices like the box fans, heaters and power tools can overheat. exposed wiring can also lead to electrical fires in the stable, how can a simple push of an animal that accidentally hit more than one machine.
5. Get Moving
Get your horse used to wearing a halter, and get used to tow. Should be practiced regularly quickly get your horse into a trailer for the same reason that schools have fire drills, ask a group of children out of practice out of a burning building in a quiet way is a bit unrealistic, since is seeking a new and strange behavior of his horse. Remember, practice makes perfect!
6. The right equipment for the job
If you own a trailer, check it regularly. ordinary wear and tear trailer can result in structural disruption, leading to entirely avoidable accidents. Also, make sure your towing vehicle is suitable for the size and weight of the trailer and horse. Many accidents occur because the vehicles are not able to manage the size and weight of the trailer.
Always make sure the trailer is properly hooked-fixed hitch ball, safety chains or cables connected, and the battery charged and the emergency brake is linked to vehicle towing. the correct tire pressure (as shown on the tire sidewall) is also very important.
7. His horse is a social animal?
Get your horse well socialized and accustomed to being handled by all sorts of strange. If possible, invite the emergency services and / or members of your local fire department to interact with your horse. Be of mutual benefit so that they know. Fire team participation can smell like smoke and look unusual, that many find frightening horses, asking him to use his usual response team to get your horse to look and smell.
8. Make friends with Fire
Know your emergency services and show the design of the property so they are familiar with their horses and risks and extent of the property.
9. Phone tree
Establish a phone tree / buddy system with other horse owners and farms nearby. This could prove very valuable in case-o-need to evacuate the animals and share resources such as trailers, grazing, or extra hands!
10. Very important documents
Keep equine veterinary records in a safe place where you can reach quickly. Be sure to send the emergency phone numbers near the phone. Include your veterinarian 24 hour emergency services and friends. You should also keep a copy for emergency services in the barn, which includes phone numbers for you, your emergency contact, and several friends veterinarian 24 hours.
General Horse Care
These general guidelines for horse owners are not meant to replace regular visits to a veterinarian. If you have any questions about the health of your pet, please consult your veterinarian.
Nutritional Needs
a horse's digestive system is made to process large quantities of grass, which is high in fiber and water. The basic diet for most horses should be quality and good grass hay, free of dust and mold. In most cases, plenty of fresh, clean water, not frozen, should be available at all times, even if the horse only drinks once or twice daily.
How much is enough? Most of the time, horses should be able to graze or eat hay when they want. An empty stomach is provided with an increased risk of ulcers, which are quite common in race horses and sports. How much to feed depends on various factors such as the condition and activity level, but most horses should eat between 2% and 4% of their body weight in pounds of hay or other feed. You have to see your horse and make sure that you maintain a healthy weight. Your veterinarian can help you decide how to feed horses hold their shape and healthy.
A word about grains
Most horses, even very active, do not need the extra calories found in grains, which are high in carbohydrates. Foals fed "high energy" diets can develop bone and joint problems. Some adult horses develop certain muscle disorders related to excess carbohydrates. It is also wrong to feed a horse extra grain in the winter to keep warm. There are, in fact, produce more heat when digested.
Any change in diet should be gradual to avoid colic (abdominal pain usually associated with intestinal disease) or laminitis (painful inflammation of the hoof associated with the separation of the leg bone of the hoof wall), either of which can be catastrophic. Late in horses or ponies in the barn or to be allowed to gorge on the green grass for the first time since the fall goes to the disaster. If you travel with your horse, bring your lunch along. For some horses, may also have to carry a supply of water that is used to.
Shots and worming
All horses need vaccinations and most need regular worming. The details should be discussed with an equine veterinarian. Each horse must be protected against tetanus. Other vaccines given routinely include eastern equine encephalitis and western equine influenza, rhinopneumonitis (equine herpesvirus), and rabies. Vaccines for West Nile virus are available. Consult your veterinarian if other vaccines are appropriate for your horse.
Worms can cause weight loss, poor coat, and colic, which can be fatal. It is better to have the vet test and deworm your horse, or advise you on what to wear and when. More important than the treatment of parasites is to minimize animal exposure to parasites. Proper management is not to put too many horses on too little land, rotating pastures if possible, and removing feces regularly.
Shelter, rest and exercise
Contrary to what you may have heard, straight stalls are not necessarily worse than box stalls if the horses are together, and spend most of their day outdoors. Isolated pit horses may develop behavioral problems of lack of companionship, exercise and mental stimulation. Whenever possible, horses should be outside with other horses every day.
Horses may enter into a light sleep with their legs "locked" so it takes very little effort to stand. In order to achieve deep (REM or dream) sleep, a horse to lie down. No one knows the number and frequency of a horse that has to do this, but take note of any changes in sleep patterns of your horse.
The horses are born to move. In nature you can walk many miles in a day, sometimes at a trot, a gallop, but unless you rarely have to. daily opportunity to exercise is a necessity, but if you are building the horse's strength and conditioning, follow a sensible plan, and little by little.
Extreme weather precautions
Unless you are very wet and windy, horses tolerate cold much better than the heat and humidity. If you can not sweat, you can not get rid of heat buildup in their bodies. If the sum of the temperature in degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity in percentage is over 130, you should be careful with the exercise of his horse. If it is over 150, you should probably rest in the shade, and if more than 180, most horses should not work at all.
Hoof Care
Hooves should be trimmed every six to eight weeks for horses whose feet do not get adequate natural wear. Despite tradition, most horses do not need shoes if the hooves are given the opportunity to strengthen naturally. In fact, some hoof problems are directly related to rackets. However, the changes should not be made suddenly or without expert guidance. Find a veterinarian or farrier willing to discuss all options can be difficult, but worthwhile. In any case, neglecting the feet can be disastrous for the horse.
Teeth
Horses' teeth grow continuously. Uneven wear can lead to points and edges that cause pain and difficulty chewing. A horse's teeth should be checked once or twice a year and "floated" (to make them smoother) by a veterinarian or equine dentist trained, as necessary. Dental problems, from painful points to rotting teeth, can cause difficulty chewing or quidding "which occurs when food falls from the mouth. Other signs of dental disease can include bad breath, undigested hay in the stools, or discomfort from the bit or noseband. Dental disease can lead to strangulation, cramps, and weight loss.
Equine Poisoning Prevention
Veterinarians at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center has compiled the following list of spring and summer dangers to horses:
* Wilted red maple leaves
* Black Walnut (eg shavings bedding)
* Oak (especially the new leaves of spring growth)
* Species of Taxus (yew, Japanese yew, American yew, English yew, western yew, oleander and laurel rose
* Rhododendrons and azaleas
* Serpentaria White sanicle richweed, white, jimmy weed, goldenrod without light, burrow weed
* Yellow Star Thistle, Thistle St Barnabas, Russian NAPWA
* Blister beetles, which sometimes can be found in alfalfa hay, especially in the Midwest and Southwest)
If you suspect your animal has ingested a poisonous substance, call your veterinarian or telephone 24 hours a day of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.
Nutritional Needs
a horse's digestive system is made to process large quantities of grass, which is high in fiber and water. The basic diet for most horses should be quality and good grass hay, free of dust and mold. In most cases, plenty of fresh, clean water, not frozen, should be available at all times, even if the horse only drinks once or twice daily.
How much is enough? Most of the time, horses should be able to graze or eat hay when they want. An empty stomach is provided with an increased risk of ulcers, which are quite common in race horses and sports. How much to feed depends on various factors such as the condition and activity level, but most horses should eat between 2% and 4% of their body weight in pounds of hay or other feed. You have to see your horse and make sure that you maintain a healthy weight. Your veterinarian can help you decide how to feed horses hold their shape and healthy.
A word about grains
Most horses, even very active, do not need the extra calories found in grains, which are high in carbohydrates. Foals fed "high energy" diets can develop bone and joint problems. Some adult horses develop certain muscle disorders related to excess carbohydrates. It is also wrong to feed a horse extra grain in the winter to keep warm. There are, in fact, produce more heat when digested.
Any change in diet should be gradual to avoid colic (abdominal pain usually associated with intestinal disease) or laminitis (painful inflammation of the hoof associated with the separation of the leg bone of the hoof wall), either of which can be catastrophic. Late in horses or ponies in the barn or to be allowed to gorge on the green grass for the first time since the fall goes to the disaster. If you travel with your horse, bring your lunch along. For some horses, may also have to carry a supply of water that is used to.
Shots and worming
All horses need vaccinations and most need regular worming. The details should be discussed with an equine veterinarian. Each horse must be protected against tetanus. Other vaccines given routinely include eastern equine encephalitis and western equine influenza, rhinopneumonitis (equine herpesvirus), and rabies. Vaccines for West Nile virus are available. Consult your veterinarian if other vaccines are appropriate for your horse.
Worms can cause weight loss, poor coat, and colic, which can be fatal. It is better to have the vet test and deworm your horse, or advise you on what to wear and when. More important than the treatment of parasites is to minimize animal exposure to parasites. Proper management is not to put too many horses on too little land, rotating pastures if possible, and removing feces regularly.
Shelter, rest and exercise
Contrary to what you may have heard, straight stalls are not necessarily worse than box stalls if the horses are together, and spend most of their day outdoors. Isolated pit horses may develop behavioral problems of lack of companionship, exercise and mental stimulation. Whenever possible, horses should be outside with other horses every day.
Horses may enter into a light sleep with their legs "locked" so it takes very little effort to stand. In order to achieve deep (REM or dream) sleep, a horse to lie down. No one knows the number and frequency of a horse that has to do this, but take note of any changes in sleep patterns of your horse.
The horses are born to move. In nature you can walk many miles in a day, sometimes at a trot, a gallop, but unless you rarely have to. daily opportunity to exercise is a necessity, but if you are building the horse's strength and conditioning, follow a sensible plan, and little by little.
Extreme weather precautions
Unless you are very wet and windy, horses tolerate cold much better than the heat and humidity. If you can not sweat, you can not get rid of heat buildup in their bodies. If the sum of the temperature in degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity in percentage is over 130, you should be careful with the exercise of his horse. If it is over 150, you should probably rest in the shade, and if more than 180, most horses should not work at all.
Hoof Care
Hooves should be trimmed every six to eight weeks for horses whose feet do not get adequate natural wear. Despite tradition, most horses do not need shoes if the hooves are given the opportunity to strengthen naturally. In fact, some hoof problems are directly related to rackets. However, the changes should not be made suddenly or without expert guidance. Find a veterinarian or farrier willing to discuss all options can be difficult, but worthwhile. In any case, neglecting the feet can be disastrous for the horse.
Teeth
Horses' teeth grow continuously. Uneven wear can lead to points and edges that cause pain and difficulty chewing. A horse's teeth should be checked once or twice a year and "floated" (to make them smoother) by a veterinarian or equine dentist trained, as necessary. Dental problems, from painful points to rotting teeth, can cause difficulty chewing or quidding "which occurs when food falls from the mouth. Other signs of dental disease can include bad breath, undigested hay in the stools, or discomfort from the bit or noseband. Dental disease can lead to strangulation, cramps, and weight loss.
Equine Poisoning Prevention
Veterinarians at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center has compiled the following list of spring and summer dangers to horses:
* Wilted red maple leaves
* Black Walnut (eg shavings bedding)
* Oak (especially the new leaves of spring growth)
* Species of Taxus (yew, Japanese yew, American yew, English yew, western yew, oleander and laurel rose
* Rhododendrons and azaleas
* Serpentaria White sanicle richweed, white, jimmy weed, goldenrod without light, burrow weed
* Yellow Star Thistle, Thistle St Barnabas, Russian NAPWA
* Blister beetles, which sometimes can be found in alfalfa hay, especially in the Midwest and Southwest)
If you suspect your animal has ingested a poisonous substance, call your veterinarian or telephone 24 hours a day of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.
Top 10 Nutritional Tips for Horses
Remember the old nursery rhyme that begins, "Hay is for horses"? As a result, it is good advice for feeding horses company, as these tips from our experts on the ASPCA Pet Nutrition and Science Advisory Service.
1. Base Your Horse’s Diet on Grass and Hay
1. Base Your Horse’s Diet on Grass and Hay
The basal diet of grass horse hay and a horse's digestive system is made to process large quantities of grass, which is high in fiber and water. The basic diet for most horses should consist of grass hay and good quality that is free of dust and mold. As a general rule, horses company should be able to graze or eat hay when they want.
2. Feed several small meals a day
Because the stomach of horses have been developed for grazing, the horses run better with a meal plan based on "little and often. "ASPCA experts recommend that horses should eat several small meals at least two, preferably three or more, in the course of a day. When feeding hay, give half the allowance of hay at night, when the horses have more time to eat and digest.
3. No grain, No Gain
Most horses, even very active, do not need the extra calories found in grains. Too much grain can lead to muscles, bones and joints in young horses and adults. Unless otherwise stated by your veterinarian or other equine animals, it is best to feed the low energy diets high in grass and hay.
4. Be aware of individual needs
I think in terms of individuality of the horse, as a condition and activity level. Some horses have difficulty keeping on weight, and need more food per unit body weight. However, most horses should eat between 2 and 4 percent of their body weight per day in pounds of hay or other feed. Your veterinarian can help you decide how and what to feed your horse.
5. Water Works
Plenty of fresh, clean water, not frozen, should be available in most cases, although the only horse drinks once or twice daily. Contrary to instinct, horses that are hot from strenuous exercise should not have free access to water. Rather, it is necessary that only a few sips every three to five minutes until they are cool enough.
6. Provide additional salt block
Because most diets do not contain mineral levels high enough for optimal health and performance, horses should have free access to trace mineral blocks and salt. This will provide your horse with adequate levels of salt to stabilize the pH and electrolyte levels, and adequate levels of minerals. While plenty of fresh water available, no need to worry about excessive salt consumption.
7. Take it easy
Any change in diet should be gradual to avoid colic (abdominal pain usually associated with intestinal disease) and laminitis (painful inflammation of the hoof associated with the separation of the leg bone of the hoof wall), any which can be catastrophic. Horses are physically unable to vomit or belch. Overfeeding and rapid rates of consumption are potential problems. Consequently, a horse or pony to break into the barn, or if you get sick of green grass for the first time since the fall, may be headed for a health disaster.
8. Dental care and diet of your horse: Chew On This.
Horses need their teeth to grind grass and hay, so it is important to keep teeth healthy. At the age of five years, horses should begin annual dental examination by a veterinarian to see if their teeth need floating (filing). quality of teeth has to take into account when deciding whether or not to feed processed grains (grains that are no longer whole and cracked corn and oats). Horses with poor dental soundness, a particular problem in older horses, tend to benefit more from finished feeds that make young horses, who have mouths and teeth stronger.
9. Be careful
stabled horses need exercise. The horses eat better, digest food better and are less likely to colic if appropriate exercise. The horses must finish eating at least one hour before the hard work. Do not feed grain to horses tired or hot they cool and rested, preferably one or two hours after the activity. You can feed hay instead. To prevent hot horse cool too quickly, keep them out of projects or warm blankets.
10. Do not leave home without it
Since the sudden change in diet can have devastating results in the sensitive system of a horse, always put food on your horse with you when traveling. In addition, some horses refuse to drink water do not know, so you can bring along a supply of water to your horse regularly drinks.
2. Feed several small meals a day
Because the stomach of horses have been developed for grazing, the horses run better with a meal plan based on "little and often. "ASPCA experts recommend that horses should eat several small meals at least two, preferably three or more, in the course of a day. When feeding hay, give half the allowance of hay at night, when the horses have more time to eat and digest.
3. No grain, No Gain
Most horses, even very active, do not need the extra calories found in grains. Too much grain can lead to muscles, bones and joints in young horses and adults. Unless otherwise stated by your veterinarian or other equine animals, it is best to feed the low energy diets high in grass and hay.
4. Be aware of individual needs
I think in terms of individuality of the horse, as a condition and activity level. Some horses have difficulty keeping on weight, and need more food per unit body weight. However, most horses should eat between 2 and 4 percent of their body weight per day in pounds of hay or other feed. Your veterinarian can help you decide how and what to feed your horse.
5. Water Works
Plenty of fresh, clean water, not frozen, should be available in most cases, although the only horse drinks once or twice daily. Contrary to instinct, horses that are hot from strenuous exercise should not have free access to water. Rather, it is necessary that only a few sips every three to five minutes until they are cool enough.
6. Provide additional salt block
Because most diets do not contain mineral levels high enough for optimal health and performance, horses should have free access to trace mineral blocks and salt. This will provide your horse with adequate levels of salt to stabilize the pH and electrolyte levels, and adequate levels of minerals. While plenty of fresh water available, no need to worry about excessive salt consumption.
7. Take it easy
Any change in diet should be gradual to avoid colic (abdominal pain usually associated with intestinal disease) and laminitis (painful inflammation of the hoof associated with the separation of the leg bone of the hoof wall), any which can be catastrophic. Horses are physically unable to vomit or belch. Overfeeding and rapid rates of consumption are potential problems. Consequently, a horse or pony to break into the barn, or if you get sick of green grass for the first time since the fall, may be headed for a health disaster.
8. Dental care and diet of your horse: Chew On This.
Horses need their teeth to grind grass and hay, so it is important to keep teeth healthy. At the age of five years, horses should begin annual dental examination by a veterinarian to see if their teeth need floating (filing). quality of teeth has to take into account when deciding whether or not to feed processed grains (grains that are no longer whole and cracked corn and oats). Horses with poor dental soundness, a particular problem in older horses, tend to benefit more from finished feeds that make young horses, who have mouths and teeth stronger.
9. Be careful
stabled horses need exercise. The horses eat better, digest food better and are less likely to colic if appropriate exercise. The horses must finish eating at least one hour before the hard work. Do not feed grain to horses tired or hot they cool and rested, preferably one or two hours after the activity. You can feed hay instead. To prevent hot horse cool too quickly, keep them out of projects or warm blankets.
10. Do not leave home without it
Since the sudden change in diet can have devastating results in the sensitive system of a horse, always put food on your horse with you when traveling. In addition, some horses refuse to drink water do not know, so you can bring along a supply of water to your horse regularly drinks.
Teaching Your Horse Not to Bite
In the horse world, there are different motivations to bite. tell aggressive bites another horse to back. These bites are always accompanied by aggressive signals as crestfallen, nostrils blew, attention is focused, and the neck stretched and head. Because horses usually show signs how are you prior to delivery of a bite, few horses actually get bitten by an attack. They read the language of a furious horse's body and away from the threat. The horses sometimes bite people too, and the accompanying body language to indicate whether a sting is really aggressive.
The horses bite each other to indicate that they like to play. Play bites are common among young horses, especially colts and geldings. The horses sometimes try to start the game with people by biting game. Young horses, when given a chance to leave after being arrested, often inclined to bite in his enthusiasm. Horses also prepares each other with their teeth. They gently nibble their herd mates, particularly the cross and neck, and sometimes direct the preparation behavior toward their human guardians.
Biting directed to humans is a dangerous behavior, regardless of motivation. The good news is that most bite problems can be solved through management and training.
Pinching and Trafficking
Horses explore their environment with their mouths. In particular, if bored, horses tend to mouth things and nuzzle at their disposal, including people. People sometimes inadvertently contribute to this problem. For example, if you often move your horse when given a nudge, but then was distracted while talking with a friend and not paying attention to his horse, she might get frustrated and try to pinch. Some horses will do the same thing when they want candy.
Pinching in these situations is not aggression, but it is a natural behavior that a horse can learn to use to her advantage. In fact, some managers will not allow stable students to give their horses because they think it is the horses from biting. There is some truth to this, some horses will receive fast if you give treats in your hand. But the problem is not trafficking. This is how the sweets are delivered and, more importantly, who is in control of their delivery. If the demands of your horse is patting or pinching and then forced him to his horse will nip it because that is what has been taught to do!
However, if you give your horse is when you pet or a snack, she will not bother pushing or pinching sweets. This lesson is particularly effective if they also teach that she can get is by performing a specific behavior such as nodding, kissing or touching the nose to a target. (Please see our article, How to teach horses to their destination, for detailed information about how to teach your horse this fun and useful skill.) When you ask your horse to perform the trick again that I taught, marks the moment when she correctly answered saying a word like "Yes!" or "Good!" Then your reward with a treat. With this technique, teach your horse that gives you the answers you ask, do not bite, "and you will win is pinched nip in the bud!
Nip Simple Rules for treatment-free
How to teach the horse not to bite
If your horse has been bitten in the past, take time to assess the situation. When does the bite? What was happening around your horse? What had happened or was about to happen to her? Answering these questions can help determine when the horse is more likely to bite. Then you can make an effort to avoid these situations or change in some way to reduce the motivation for his horse to bite.
If she does not lunge or rather, work on their leadership skills. main skills involve teaching your horse to give to pressure, to produce their hindquarters and a backup. These are all skills that will focus the attention of your horse and help work off their energy. Please see our article, How to teach horses to lead, to learn to teach these skills useful.
Dealing with Aggression
When the horse bites, the bite is aggressive? He covered his ears and mouth to push forward? Aggression should be dealt with through more than management training and simple, so you may need to seek help. It is better to work under the direction of a Certified Applied Animal behaviorist (or ACAAB CAAB), a veterinary behaviorist board certified (Dip ACVB) or an experienced coach with aggression in horses. Please see our article, Where to seek professional help to locate one of these qualified experts in behavior. If you decide to hire a coach because you can not find a behaviorist in your area, make sure the trainer you choose is trained to help. Find out if he or she has the education and experience in successfully treating the aggression horse.
The horses bite each other to indicate that they like to play. Play bites are common among young horses, especially colts and geldings. The horses sometimes try to start the game with people by biting game. Young horses, when given a chance to leave after being arrested, often inclined to bite in his enthusiasm. Horses also prepares each other with their teeth. They gently nibble their herd mates, particularly the cross and neck, and sometimes direct the preparation behavior toward their human guardians.
Biting directed to humans is a dangerous behavior, regardless of motivation. The good news is that most bite problems can be solved through management and training.
Pinching and Trafficking
Horses explore their environment with their mouths. In particular, if bored, horses tend to mouth things and nuzzle at their disposal, including people. People sometimes inadvertently contribute to this problem. For example, if you often move your horse when given a nudge, but then was distracted while talking with a friend and not paying attention to his horse, she might get frustrated and try to pinch. Some horses will do the same thing when they want candy.
Pinching in these situations is not aggression, but it is a natural behavior that a horse can learn to use to her advantage. In fact, some managers will not allow stable students to give their horses because they think it is the horses from biting. There is some truth to this, some horses will receive fast if you give treats in your hand. But the problem is not trafficking. This is how the sweets are delivered and, more importantly, who is in control of their delivery. If the demands of your horse is patting or pinching and then forced him to his horse will nip it because that is what has been taught to do!
However, if you give your horse is when you pet or a snack, she will not bother pushing or pinching sweets. This lesson is particularly effective if they also teach that she can get is by performing a specific behavior such as nodding, kissing or touching the nose to a target. (Please see our article, How to teach horses to their destination, for detailed information about how to teach your horse this fun and useful skill.) When you ask your horse to perform the trick again that I taught, marks the moment when she correctly answered saying a word like "Yes!" or "Good!" Then your reward with a treat. With this technique, teach your horse that gives you the answers you ask, do not bite, "and you will win is pinched nip in the bud!
Nip Simple Rules for treatment-free
- Do not give your horse when it touches you or your pockets.
- Do not take it into his pockets and then let your horse try to recover them.
- Do not give your horse the opportunity to nip at his hands while offering a treat. Whenever you give it, keep your palm flat and facing upward, fingers held together well and tipped slightly downward.
- When you want to give your horse a treat, ask him to perform some simple behavior to win. The moment she does the behavior is marked with "Yes!" And then to get treatment.
How to teach the horse not to bite
If your horse has been bitten in the past, take time to assess the situation. When does the bite? What was happening around your horse? What had happened or was about to happen to her? Answering these questions can help determine when the horse is more likely to bite. Then you can make an effort to avoid these situations or change in some way to reduce the motivation for his horse to bite.
- Protection Resources Some horses bite during meals. If your horse bites when you bring your food, teach her to lose the food that she thinks she is protecting scathing with their behavior:
- At the moment his horse aggressive behavior directed towards you, simply walk away from the food and go.
- When the horse stops behaving aggressively, they return with dinner. If she reacts aggressively again, simply turn on again. If you are consistent, your horse will stop being aggressive.
- Does your horse bite when afraid? If so, its desensitized to things they fear. Please see our articles, horses that are afraid of noises, horses that are susceptible to manipulation and horses to be thrown head, for information on how to solve these problems related to fear. Pain is the horse bites because he is in pain? Carefully evaluate their physical and welding techniques. Does your chair form? If you girthing too fast or too well? Circle slowly and unhurriedly. Always be careful and gentle when tacking. High energy Does your horse bite of emotion, simply because it has too much energy to be contained? If you have a high horse power, channel and reduce the energy:
If she does not lunge or rather, work on their leadership skills. main skills involve teaching your horse to give to pressure, to produce their hindquarters and a backup. These are all skills that will focus the attention of your horse and help work off their energy. Please see our article, How to teach horses to lead, to learn to teach these skills useful.
Dealing with Aggression
When the horse bites, the bite is aggressive? He covered his ears and mouth to push forward? Aggression should be dealt with through more than management training and simple, so you may need to seek help. It is better to work under the direction of a Certified Applied Animal behaviorist (or ACAAB CAAB), a veterinary behaviorist board certified (Dip ACVB) or an experienced coach with aggression in horses. Please see our article, Where to seek professional help to locate one of these qualified experts in behavior. If you decide to hire a coach because you can not find a behaviorist in your area, make sure the trainer you choose is trained to help. Find out if he or she has the education and experience in successfully treating the aggression horse.
Horse Care
Basic Information for the Serious Novice Horseperson
Because of their size and strength, horses are often misunderstood by people who don't know much about them. They often assume horses require little care - just stick them in a field and they'll be fine. They also tend to underestimate the safety aspects of being around horses - safety for both horse and human. Finally, many novice horse people, and even some experienced ones, don't understand horse behaviour and communication and so handle the horse inappropriately.
The information presented in the following fact sheets and articles is intended as an introduction to basic horse care. More detailed information is available in many excellent books and a growing number of web sites. Always remember that the primary source of health care advice for your horse should be your veterinarian who knows the specifics of your animal and your situation. If in doubt, ask your veterinarian.
Jan 15, 2011
Microchipping for Your Cat's Safety
Your pet escapes the yard and is found a few miles away by an animal control officer, who takes the pet back to the shelter and scans the pet in hopes of finding a microchip code. When a code is found and displayed on the scanner, the shelter employee is able to determine which database to contact for further information. Once the database is contacted, the microchip code is given.
At this point, there are two outcomes. If the owner did not register his name and telephone number with the database, the veterinary clinic that purchased the microchip is listed. Unfortunately, the pet must stay at the shelter until the veterinary clinic can be contacted, usually the next business day, in order to determine the name and telephone number of the owner.
The other potential outcome is based on owner's paying an additional fee and registering his name, address and telephone number, including alternates, with the database.
In this situation, the database is able to supply your telephone number to the shelter employee. The shelter can then contact you directly, resulting in reuniting you with your pet that night.
Recommendations
It is recommended that all pets are microchipped. Even those pets that do not venture outside may escape one day.
Register your pet!!! It is recommended that you pay the additional fee and have your name and telephone number listed with the microchip code.
It is recommended that you use an identifier on your pets collar indicating that he or she has a microchip and what kind.
An annual visit to the veterinarian specifically to test the microchip is recommended. Have your veterinarian scan your pet to determine if the chip is still transmitting data.
Annually confirm your pet's information with the microchip database and ensure that all contact information including your address, home and cell phone numbers, email address, and pager number, etc are all current. Ask your veterinarian or their staff where the chip is located in your pet. Most chips are injected over the back but they may migrate to the side.
Routinely feel the area in the location of the microchip for abnormalities. Report any masses or lumps to your vet immediately.
Microchips are fast becoming a popular method for permanent identification of pets. The chips are considered reliable and an effective way to identify lost pets. The chip is small, compact and easily inserted under the skin. But once inserted, there are two other equally important components of the microchip system that must be in place in order to properly identify and return lost pets to their owners; the microchip scanner and an accessible and accurate database. However, there is controversy regarding the chips and scanners.
The Controversy
AVID® and Home Again® microchips read on a frequency of 125 khz and have been commonly used in veterinary hospitals and shelters across the United States. Each company has universal scanners that can identify chips from each other as well as other microchip companies that create chips that are also 125 khz.
Controversy involving microchips exists because one company (Banfield®) introduced a chip that was 134.2 khz and incompatible with other readers. Therefore, pets chipped with Banfield® microchips could not be identified with the most common microchip scanners on the market in the U.S. Banfield has since stopped selling the undetectable microchips in their clinics. Recently, Home Again® announced a new scanner that will read all 125 kHZ microchips and detect 134 kHz chips.
The Microchip
The microchip is a tiny computer chip or transponder about the size of a grain of rice. It stores an identification number and transmits that information through radio waves to the appropriate scanner. Typically, the microchip number contains 10 characters, making available 275 billion separate codes. This makes it highly unlikely that the same identifying code will be used more than once. Rest assured that your pet will have a unique microchip code.
Microchips are composed of a silicon chip and tiny antenna encased in biocompatible glass. The microchips come pre-loaded in a syringe, and the needle is inserted just under the skin between the shoulder blades where the microchip is implanted. The entire procedure takes less than 10 seconds and is only as painful as a vaccination injection.
After injection, the tissue surrounding the microchip reacts to this new substance and forms a casing. This helps prevent migration of the microchip. Since the microchip is made of biocompatible material, rejection is uncommon and infection at the site is very rare.
The Microchip Scanner
The microchip scanner is used as a power source for the microchip and is used to receive the message encoded in the chip. The scanner uses electromagnetic energy to empower the chip to transmit its message through radio waves, which are normally at specific frequencies for each manufacturer of microchips. For this reason, in the past, not all scanners could read all brands of microchips.
In an effort to address this potential problem, in 1996, the International Standards Organization published that universal readers must be produced. Scanners are provided to animal control, humane shelters and other rescue organizations in an effort to ensure that every stray pet is scanned and those with chips are reunited with their owners. Veterinarians can also purchase scanners for use in their hospital.
Do Microchips Cause Cancer
There have been some reports of tumors caused by microchips in laboratory mice and rats. There is also a report of a dog that had a tumor removed that was next to the microchip however do definitive proof suggested it was from the microchip. The manufacturers of the microchips claim they are safe. For more discussion on this topic, go to Do Microchips Cause Cancer?
Should you microchip your pet? Absolutely Yes! Microchips are the best way of permanent identification of pets. The chips are considered reliable and an effective way to identify lost pets. At this point in time, we believe that they likelihood of a pet being lost and possibly euthanized because he cannot be identified is way higher than the chance of a tumor.
Microchip Database
Even if your pet has a microchip and is properly scanned, without an accessible database, this information will not return your pet to you. When contacted with the identification code of a missing pet, the database personnel can retrieve the pet's information. Each microchip that is sold is registered to the veterinary hospital or shelter that purchased it. It is the responsibility of the veterinary hospital to record your pet's unique microchip identification number in his record and notify the microchip database.
In addition, you can register your pet in your own name for faster notification when your lost pet has been found. There is a charge for this service. These microchip databases are usually available 24 hours a day and are even accessible via the Internet. But remember, the database, as with computers, is only as good as the data it contains. Annual confirmation of your pet's microchip information is strongly recommended.
Various Microchip Companies
In the United States, there are currently two active suppliers of microchips. American Veterinary Identification Devices (AVID®) and HomeAgain®. Each has unique codes and each support their own databases. Each is readily accessible.
AVID®
To date, AVID® has sold several million microchips. According to a spokesperson, a pet is reunited with his owner every 32 minutes. Currently, over 142, 000 lost pets have been returned home. For more information on AVID® microchips, visit them at www.avidid.com or call 1-800-336-AVID.
HomeAgain®
To date, HomeAgain® has sold over 500,000 microchips and over 34,000 pets have been reunited with their owners. For more information on HomeAgain® microchips, visit them at http://www.homeagainid.com/ or call the HomeAgain Pet Recovery Service at 1-866-PET-ID24 (1-866-738-4324).
At this point, there are two outcomes. If the owner did not register his name and telephone number with the database, the veterinary clinic that purchased the microchip is listed. Unfortunately, the pet must stay at the shelter until the veterinary clinic can be contacted, usually the next business day, in order to determine the name and telephone number of the owner.
The other potential outcome is based on owner's paying an additional fee and registering his name, address and telephone number, including alternates, with the database.
In this situation, the database is able to supply your telephone number to the shelter employee. The shelter can then contact you directly, resulting in reuniting you with your pet that night.
Recommendations
Microchips are fast becoming a popular method for permanent identification of pets. The chips are considered reliable and an effective way to identify lost pets. The chip is small, compact and easily inserted under the skin. But once inserted, there are two other equally important components of the microchip system that must be in place in order to properly identify and return lost pets to their owners; the microchip scanner and an accessible and accurate database. However, there is controversy regarding the chips and scanners.
The Controversy
AVID® and Home Again® microchips read on a frequency of 125 khz and have been commonly used in veterinary hospitals and shelters across the United States. Each company has universal scanners that can identify chips from each other as well as other microchip companies that create chips that are also 125 khz.
Controversy involving microchips exists because one company (Banfield®) introduced a chip that was 134.2 khz and incompatible with other readers. Therefore, pets chipped with Banfield® microchips could not be identified with the most common microchip scanners on the market in the U.S. Banfield has since stopped selling the undetectable microchips in their clinics. Recently, Home Again® announced a new scanner that will read all 125 kHZ microchips and detect 134 kHz chips.
The Microchip
The microchip is a tiny computer chip or transponder about the size of a grain of rice. It stores an identification number and transmits that information through radio waves to the appropriate scanner. Typically, the microchip number contains 10 characters, making available 275 billion separate codes. This makes it highly unlikely that the same identifying code will be used more than once. Rest assured that your pet will have a unique microchip code.
Microchips are composed of a silicon chip and tiny antenna encased in biocompatible glass. The microchips come pre-loaded in a syringe, and the needle is inserted just under the skin between the shoulder blades where the microchip is implanted. The entire procedure takes less than 10 seconds and is only as painful as a vaccination injection.
After injection, the tissue surrounding the microchip reacts to this new substance and forms a casing. This helps prevent migration of the microchip. Since the microchip is made of biocompatible material, rejection is uncommon and infection at the site is very rare.
The Microchip Scanner
The microchip scanner is used as a power source for the microchip and is used to receive the message encoded in the chip. The scanner uses electromagnetic energy to empower the chip to transmit its message through radio waves, which are normally at specific frequencies for each manufacturer of microchips. For this reason, in the past, not all scanners could read all brands of microchips.
In an effort to address this potential problem, in 1996, the International Standards Organization published that universal readers must be produced. Scanners are provided to animal control, humane shelters and other rescue organizations in an effort to ensure that every stray pet is scanned and those with chips are reunited with their owners. Veterinarians can also purchase scanners for use in their hospital.
Do Microchips Cause Cancer
There have been some reports of tumors caused by microchips in laboratory mice and rats. There is also a report of a dog that had a tumor removed that was next to the microchip however do definitive proof suggested it was from the microchip. The manufacturers of the microchips claim they are safe. For more discussion on this topic, go to Do Microchips Cause Cancer?
Should you microchip your pet? Absolutely Yes! Microchips are the best way of permanent identification of pets. The chips are considered reliable and an effective way to identify lost pets. At this point in time, we believe that they likelihood of a pet being lost and possibly euthanized because he cannot be identified is way higher than the chance of a tumor.
Microchip Database
Even if your pet has a microchip and is properly scanned, without an accessible database, this information will not return your pet to you. When contacted with the identification code of a missing pet, the database personnel can retrieve the pet's information. Each microchip that is sold is registered to the veterinary hospital or shelter that purchased it. It is the responsibility of the veterinary hospital to record your pet's unique microchip identification number in his record and notify the microchip database.
In addition, you can register your pet in your own name for faster notification when your lost pet has been found. There is a charge for this service. These microchip databases are usually available 24 hours a day and are even accessible via the Internet. But remember, the database, as with computers, is only as good as the data it contains. Annual confirmation of your pet's microchip information is strongly recommended.
Various Microchip Companies
In the United States, there are currently two active suppliers of microchips. American Veterinary Identification Devices (AVID®) and HomeAgain®. Each has unique codes and each support their own databases. Each is readily accessible.
AVID®
To date, AVID® has sold several million microchips. According to a spokesperson, a pet is reunited with his owner every 32 minutes. Currently, over 142, 000 lost pets have been returned home. For more information on AVID® microchips, visit them at www.avidid.com or call 1-800-336-AVID.
HomeAgain®
To date, HomeAgain® has sold over 500,000 microchips and over 34,000 pets have been reunited with their owners. For more information on HomeAgain® microchips, visit them at http://www.homeagainid.com/ or call the HomeAgain Pet Recovery Service at 1-866-PET-ID24 (1-866-738-4324).
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